As a tulip bulb, I am not merely a seed; I am a complete, dormant plant in a compact package. Within my brown tunic, I hold a miniature flower bud, surrounded by stored energy in the form of scales. To break this dormancy and initiate growth, I require a period of cold, mimicking the winter I would naturally experience in my native habitats. This chilling period is non-negotiable. It triggers biochemical changes within me, primarily the development of a hormone called gibberellin, which will eventually stimulate the elongation of my stem and the development of my flower. Without this simulated winter, I will remain dormant, or my growth will be stunted and abnormal, resulting in no bloom.
The process you call "forcing" begins with this crucial chilling period. You must place me in a breathable paper bag or a container with slightly moist peat moss or vermiculite. The ideal temperature for my rest is a consistent 35°F to 48°F (2°C to 9°C). A refrigerator vegetable drawer is often a suitable location, but you must keep me away from ripening fruit, as they emit ethylene gas which can damage my internal flower bud. This cold period typically lasts for 12 to 16 weeks. During this time, I am not inactive; I am slowly developing a root system and preparing my flower bud for its grand debut. You can check on me occasionally for moisture, but I should never be sitting in water, as this will cause me to rot.
After my required chilling period, I am ready to be "awakened." Plant me in a pot with a well-draining potting mix, with my pointed tip facing upwards. You do not need a deep pot; just ensure my nose is level with or just below the soil surface. Initially, place my pot in a cool, dark location with temperatures around 50-60°F (10-15°C). This allows my roots to establish themselves in the new soil. After a week or two, when you see a pale shoot emerging from the soil, it is time to introduce me to light and warmth. Move me to a location with indirect, bright light and slightly warmer temperatures, around 60-68°F (15-20°C). Direct, hot sunlight at this stage can scorch my emerging leaves and cause my stem to grow too quickly, leading to flopping.
As I sense the warmer temperatures and longer days (even if artificially provided), I will begin to rapidly grow. My stem will elongate, and my leaves will green up through photosynthesis. Soon, the flower bud I have been protecting all winter will swell and open into a beautiful bloom. To prolong my display, keep me in a cool room away from direct heat sources. Once I have finished blooming, the story changes. The forcing process is incredibly taxing on my energy reserves. I have used nearly all the food stored in my bulb to produce this out-of-season flower. Unfortunately, it is very difficult for me to replenish these reserves sufficiently indoors to bloom again next year. While you can let my foliage die back naturally and then plant me in the garden, it may take me two or three years to build up enough strength to flower again, if at all. My indoor bloom is a magnificent, but typically one-time, effort.
