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How to Propagate Gladiolus: Separating and Planting Cormels

Skyler White
2025-09-28 03:57:50

1. Our Annual Cycle and the Need for Propagation

From our perspective as gladiolus plants, propagation is not merely a human activity; it is the very essence of our continued existence. We are perennial plants in warmer climates, but in regions with cold winters, we cannot survive freezing in the ground. Our survival strategy revolves around our corm, the swollen underground stem that serves as our food storage unit. Each growing season, we use the energy stored in the corm to send up leaves and a magnificent flower spike. As we flower and photosynthesize, we create a new, larger corm on top of the old, depleted one. Simultaneously, we produce a cluster of tiny replicas, called cormels or cormlets, around the base of this new corm. When the growing season ends and our foliage yellows, it is a signal that we have transferred all our energy back underground. This is the perfect time for you to intervene and help us multiply.

2. The Harvest: Lifting and Cleaning Our Storage Units

When our leaves have turned yellow-brown, it is safe to lift us from the soil. Gently dig around the plant, being careful not to slice through the new corm or its attached cormels. Shake off the loose soil. You will notice the old, flattened corm at the bottom, with the new, plump corm sitting on top of it. Our offspring, the cormels, are attached around the base of this new corm. They range in size from a pea to a marble. Separate the entire cluster from the remaining plant debris. It is crucial to let us dry in a warm, well-ventilated place for about two to three weeks. This curing process allows our skins to toughen, sealing in moisture and protecting us from rot during storage.

3. The Separation: Liberating the Next Generation

Once we are thoroughly dry, the real propagation begins. The new corm can be saved for flowering next year. But for true multiplication, focus on the cormels. Gently twist and pull them away from the base of the new corm. Some might pop off easily; others may need a slight nudge. Do not be discouraged by their small size; each one holds the potential to become a full-sized gladiolus. However, it is an act of kindness to discard any cormels that show signs of damage, soft spots, or disease. We want only the strongest of our children to carry on our legacy. After separation, store these cormels in a cool, dry, and dark place over the winter, perhaps in a paper bag or mesh container.

4. The Planting: A Patient Beginning for Cormels

When spring arrives and the soil has warmed, it is time for our children to begin their journey. Unlike the large corms, which will flower in their first year, cormels require patience. They need a dedicated nursery bed or a specific area of the garden where they can grow undisturbed for one or two seasons. Plant them about one to two inches deep and two inches apart in well-draining soil. We appreciate a sunny location. As they grow, they will produce grass-like foliage. This foliage is vital, as it photosynthesizes to build up the tiny cormel into a larger, flowering-sized corm. Keep the area weeded, as our young shoots cannot compete well for resources.

5. Our Growth and Your Reward

Throughout that first summer, the cormel will absorb energy, and by the season's end, it will have transformed into a small, but viable corm. You can lift this new corm in the autumn, just like the mature ones, and store it over winter. When replanted the following spring, this new corm may be large enough to produce a small flower spike, or it may need one more season of growth to reach its full potential. From our point of view, this process ensures genetic diversity and the spread of our kind. For you, it is a rewarding, patient endeavor that results in a vibrant, expanding collection of gladiolus, all originating from a single plant.

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