From my perspective as a Clivia plant, the conclusion of my flowering period is a significant physiological event. I have expended a tremendous amount of stored energy, drawn from my thick, fleshy roots and bulb-like base, to produce the vibrant umbels of flowers. My primary goal, from a biological standpoint, was reproduction. Now that the flowers are wilting and no longer require resources, a major shift occurs within my system. My focus turns from the spectacular display of blossoms to the essential tasks of replenishment and growth. This is not a period of dormancy but rather a critical phase of active renewal, where the work done now directly influences my health and ability to flower again in the future.
The first physical change you will observe is the withering of my flower cluster. Once the vibrant orange, yellow, or red petals fade and brown, the flower stalk itself begins to desiccate. It is highly beneficial to me if you remove this spent flower stalk. Using a sharp, clean knife or secateurs, cut the stalk off at its base, close to where it emerges from between my thick, strap-like leaves. Please do not pull or tear it, as this can create a wound prone to infection. By deadheading, you prevent me from wasting precious energy on producing seeds. Seed production is an extremely energy-intensive process that would divert resources away from rebuilding my strength and developing new foliage. Removing the stalk also improves air circulation around my crown, reducing the risk of fungal diseases like rot.
My flowering has depleted the nutrient reserves within my root system. To recover and prepare for future growth cycles, I require a specific nutritional strategy. Immediately after flowering, you should provide me with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer or a liquid feed with a formulation such as 10-10-10 or one slightly higher in potassium (K), like 5-10-15. Potassium is vital for root development and overall plant hardiness. This post-bloom feeding should be applied regularly, typically every two to four weeks, throughout the spring and summer months. This is my main period of vegetative growth. As the days shorten and temperatures cool in late autumn, you should cease fertilization to allow me to enter a natural rest period, which is crucial for triggering the next cycle of flower bud formation.
Concurrent with replenishing my energy stores, I will begin a phase of active leaf production. You will notice new leaves emerging from the center of my growth point. These new leaves are essential as they are more efficient at photosynthesis than older leaves, and they will contribute significantly to my energy capture for the coming year. This is also a time when my root system will be actively exploring the potting mix. Ensure my pot has adequate drainage to prevent my sensitive roots from sitting in water, which can quickly lead to rot. While I appreciate consistent moisture during this active growth phase, I am drought-tolerant and prefer the top layer of soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Overwatering is a far greater threat to me than underwatering.
Clivia plants like me are renowned for being somewhat root-bound; a snug pot actually encourages flowering. However, after several years, I may become excessively pot-bound, with roots circling tightly and depleting the soil of nutrients. The period immediately after flowering, as I enter my main growth phase, is the ideal time to check if I need repotting. If you see roots growing out of the drainage holes or the plant is pushing itself up out of the pot, it is time. When repotting, choose a new container that is only slightly larger than the previous one—one to two inches in diameter is sufficient. Use a well-draining potting mix, ideally one formulated for orchids or one you create with plenty of organic matter like peat or coco coir and perlite. Handle my fleshy roots gently to avoid breakage.
