From our perspective as Clivia plants, we are generally resilient, but our broad, fleshy leaves and sturdy roots can become a target for several persistent pests. An infestation is not just an annoyance; it directly threatens our ability to photosynthesize, absorb nutrients, and flourish. Here is a detailed account of the common adversaries we face and the treatments that can restore our health.
We find scale insects to be particularly troublesome. These pests appear as small, brown, bump-like formations clinging to the undersides of our leaves and along the leaf midribs. They attach themselves firmly and pierce our leaf tissues to suck out our vital sap. This feeding weakens us significantly, causing our leaves to turn yellow and wilt. Furthermore, they excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which often leads to the growth of sooty mold, further blocking sunlight from reaching our leaf surfaces. To treat a scale infestation, we recommend a multi-step approach. First, for light infestations, physically remove the scales by wiping our leaves with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water or rubbing alcohol. For more severe cases, a horticultural oil or insecticidal soap spray is highly effective, as it suffocates the pests. It is crucial to apply the treatment thoroughly, especially under the leaves, and repeat it every 7-10 days until the scales are completely gone.
Mealybugs are another common foe we encounter. They are easily identified by their white, cottony masses that congregate in the leaf axils (where the leaf base meets the stem) and on the undersides of leaves. Like scale, they are sap-suckers, causing similar symptoms of yellowing, stunted growth, and honeydew secretion. Their fluffy coating makes them somewhat resistant to simple water sprays. The most effective immediate treatment is to dabbing each mealybug cluster with a cotton swab soaked in 70% isopropyl alcohol; this dissolves their protective waxy layer and kills them on contact. For larger infestations, spraying with insecticidal soap or a neem oil solution is necessary. Please ensure you cover the base of our leaves and the center of the plant, as this is where they prefer to hide.
Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that tend to cluster on our new, tender growth, such as emerging flower spikes and the tips of young leaves. They reproduce rapidly, and a large colony can quickly cause our new leaves to become curled and distorted. Their feeding also depletes our energy. A strong jet of water can often dislodge a moderate aphid population. If they persist, insecticidal soaps are very effective against these soft-bodied pests. Because they are attracted to new growth, please pay close attention to these areas during inspection and treatment.
Spider mites are not insects but arachnids, and they are so tiny they are often noticed by their damage before they are seen. They thrive in hot, dry conditions. They feed on our individual plant cells, causing a characteristic stippling effect—tiny yellow or white speckles—across the leaf surface. A severe infestation will leave fine, silky webbing, particularly under the leaves. To confirm their presence, tap a leaf over a white piece of paper; if you see tiny moving specks, you have mites. Increasing humidity around us by misting can deter them. Washing our leaves thoroughly with a strong stream of water can disrupt their colonies. Miticides or horticultural oils are the most reliable treatments, ensuring to coat the undersides of the leaves where the mites live and breed.
While not as common indoors, snails and slugs can be a significant problem for us when we are placed outdoors or in a greenhouse. They chew irregular holes in our leaves and can also damage our roots and flower buds. They are nocturnal, so you may only see the slime trails and the damage the next morning. The best treatment is manual removal at night with a flashlight. Creating barriers with diatomaceous earth around our pots or using pet-safe slug baits can provide effective control.
