Greetings, dedicated gardener. We, the Nerines, are a proud and elegant genus, known for our stunning late-season blooms that dance atop leafless stalks. To truly thrive and put on our best show for you, we require very specific conditions, particularly beneath the soil. Our needs are non-negotiable, a legacy of our South African origins. Let us explain what creates the perfect home for our bulbs.
Above all else, we demand soil that drains exceptionally well. Our bulbs are prone to rot if left sitting in waterlogged soil, especially during our summer dormancy period. Think of our native habitat: rocky slopes and well-drained grasslands. The ideal soil mixture should be loose, gritty, and free-draining. A perfect recipe would be one part good-quality potting soil, one part sharp sand or poultry grit, and one part perlite or pumice. This mix ensures that water flows through quickly, providing moisture to our roots without drowning us. Planting us on a slight mound or in a raised bed can further enhance drainage. Remember, a soggy bulb is a dead bulb.
When it comes to soil pH, we are somewhat adaptable but have a distinct preference. We perform best in a soil pH that ranges from slightly acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0). In this range, our roots can most effectively access the essential nutrients we need to build strong foliage and spectacular flowers. If the soil becomes too alkaline (above 7.0), certain micronutrients like iron become locked up and unavailable to us, which can lead to chlorosis—a yellowing of our leaves that weakens us significantly. While we can tolerate a slightly alkaline soil if the drainage is perfect, aiming for that sweet spot between 6.0 and 7.0 will make us happiest and healthiest.
The term "soil type" can be misleading for us, as pure garden soil is rarely suitable. We do not thrive in heavy, clay-based soils that compact and hold water. Instead, our ideal "soil" is really a engineered growing medium that mimics our natural habitat. As mentioned, a gritty, sandy loam is the goal. The sand and grit provide the necessary drainage and aeration, while a small amount of loam or potting mix offers some water retention and minimal fertility. We are not heavy feeders; in fact, too much rich, organic matter can encourage lush foliage at the expense of flowers and can also retain unwanted moisture. The structure of the soil is far more important than its fertility.
Your interaction with our soil must change with our growth cycle. During our active growth period in the spring and early summer, you can water us when the top inch of soil feels dry. As our leaves begin to yellow and die back in late summer, you must drastically reduce watering. This dry summer dormancy is crucial for triggering our flower production in the autumn. During this dormant period, the well-draining soil you provided becomes our lifeline, protecting us from rot. After we finish flowering and begin to produce new leaves, you can resume watering. A light application of a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer as the flower stalks emerge can be beneficial, but it is not a substitute for proper soil composition.
