From my perspective as a Desert Rose (Adenium obesum), dormancy is not a sign of sickness or distress; it is a vital survival strategy. I originate from arid regions in Africa and the Middle East, where winter brings cooler temperatures and significantly less water. My internal biological clock is tuned to these seasonal shifts. As daylight shortens and temperatures drop, I receive a clear signal: it is time to conserve energy. I will gradually slow down my metabolic processes, including photosynthesis and growth. You will notice this as my leaves begin to yellow and drop. This is intentional. By shedding leaves, I drastically reduce water loss through transpiration, allowing me to survive on the stored water and nutrients held within my thick, caudex trunk. This is my natural, healthy way of resting and preparing for a burst of growth when favorable conditions return in spring.
To support me during this rest period, the most critical factors are temperature and moisture. I do not want to be kept warm as if it were summer. This would confuse my internal rhythms and may cause me to attempt weak, spindly growth due to the low light levels. Instead, I prefer a cool environment. An ideal temperature range for my dormancy is between 50°F and 60°F (10°C and 15°C). A cool garage, a basement with a window, or an unheated room that stays above freezing is perfect. The goal is to mimic the dry, cool winter of my native habitat. Most importantly, I need to be kept completely dry. My roots are highly susceptible to rot in cold, wet soil. A dormant period with cool, dry conditions is essential for me to produce a spectacular flower display later on.
This is the most important change in your care for me. As I enter dormancy and lose my leaves, my water requirements plummet to nearly zero. You must significantly reduce watering. Once the majority of my leaves have yellowed and fallen, you should water me very sparingly, if at all. The rule is to only provide a very small amount of water—just enough to prevent my roots and caudex from shriveling excessively—only if the trunk begins to feel soft or looks significantly wrinkled. For many of us, this might mean no water for the entire winter. It is far safer for me to be too dry than too wet during this time. Overwatering is the single greatest threat to my life while I am dormant.
Please stop feeding me. Since I am not actively growing, I have no use for the nutrients in fertilizer. Applying fertilizer now would be not only wasteful but also potentially harmful. The salts in fertilizer can build up in the dry soil and damage my sensitive, resting root system. My focus is on conservation, not consumption. I have stored all the energy I need within my caudex to survive the winter and initiate new growth when the time is right. Fertilization should only resume after you see clear signs of new growth in the spring, typically when new leaves have begun to steadily emerge.
While I am dormant, my light requirements are lower, but I still appreciate bright, indirect light. A spot near a south-facing window is suitable. This light helps maintain my basic health without stimulating premature growth. As for pruning, now is not the time for major cuts. Any pruning should be limited to the removal of clearly dead or diseased stems. Major shaping or size reduction should be postponed until late winter or early spring, just as I am beginning to break dormancy and can heal the wounds effectively. This timing allows me to direct my new energy into the growth points you want to encourage.
