From our perspective, successful transplantation hinges on timing the move with our natural growth cycle. We are not dormant all year; we have periods of active growth and periods of rest. The ideal time to move us is during our "quiescent" phase, just after we have finished blooming and our energy begins to retreat from the flower stalks back into our roots and foliage. For most of us, this is in the late summer or early autumn. The intense heat of midsummer has passed, but the soil remains warm, encouraging new root development without the stress of supporting extravagant blooms. Alternatively, very early spring, just as our new green shoots (fans) are emerging from the ground, is also acceptable. At these times, our metabolic demands are low, allowing us to focus our energy on re-establishing our root system in a new location.
When you decide to move us, please be gentle. Our root system is a complex storage organ. Start by using a sharp spade to dig a wide circle around the entire clump, staying several inches away from the outermost fans to avoid damaging our vital roots. Lift the entire mass from the ground. Once we are above the soil, you will see a tangled network of roots and the individual fan units. The next step is crucial: gently wash away the soil from the root mass with a gentle spray of water. This allows you to see the natural divisions and pull the clump apart into smaller sections with your hands, or use a sharp, clean knife to make clean cuts. Each division should have at least two or three healthy fans of leaves and a good portion of the tuberous roots. Before replanting, it is immensely helpful to trim our foliage back by about one-half to two-thirds. This reduces the surface area through which we lose water (transpire), balancing the root-to-shoot ratio and minimizing the strain on our damaged root system.
Our new home must be prepared in advance to welcome us without delay. We thrive in a location that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily. The soil should be well-draining yet moisture-retentive, rich in organic matter. Before planting, work plenty of compost into the soil to improve its structure and fertility. Dig a hole wide enough to accommodate our roots without crowding them, and form a small mound of soil in the center. Place our division on top of this mound, allowing the roots to drape naturally down the sides. The crown (the point where the roots meet the fans) should be planted no more than one inch below the soil surface. Planting too deep can lead to rot and poor flowering.
The care we receive immediately after the move is what truly determines our success in overcoming transplant shock. The moment we are settled in our new hole and the soil is firmed gently around our roots, we require a deep, thorough watering. This initial watering settles the soil around the roots, eliminating air pockets that can dry us out. Consistent moisture is vital for the first several weeks. The soil should be kept evenly moist, but not waterlogged, to encourage the development of new feeder roots. While a light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer can be beneficial, avoid strong, quick-release fertilizers that might burn our tender new roots. A layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, applied around (but not touching) our crown, will help conserve moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds, creating the stable, nurturing environment we need to recover.
