From my perspective as a hollyhock seed, time is not measured in weeks but in temperature and light. I contain the entire blueprint for a towering spire of flowers, but I am dormant. To break this dormancy, I need a period of cold, moist conditions that mimics the winter I would naturally experience if I fell from my mother plant to the soil below. This process, which you call "cold stratification," is essential for me. Without it, my germination will be slow and unreliable. You can achieve this by placing my seeds in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag and refrigerating them for about two to three weeks. This cold period convinces me that winter has passed, and it is safe to begin my growth. Starting this process indoors, about 6 to 8 weeks before your last expected spring frost, gives me a vital head start, safe from the unpredictable elements outside.
My initial roots are delicate and require a gentle environment to establish themselves. A deep container is ideal because my taproot grows quickly and needs room to descend without hitting a hard bottom too soon, which can stunt my growth. Biodegradable pots, like those made from peat or cow manure, are excellent because they can be planted directly into the ground later, minimizing root disturbance. The medium you place me in is my entire world. I do not thrive in heavy garden soil, which can compact and harbor fungi. Instead, I need a light, sterile, and well-draining seed-starting mix. This specialized mix holds just the right amount of moisture and air, providing a clean, soft bed for my radical (the first root) to emerge and push my cotyledons (seed leaves) upward.
Once you sow me about a quarter-inch deep in the moist mix, my awakening truly begins. I require consistent warmth, ideally between 70-75°F (21-24°C), to trigger the metabolic processes that fuel growth. A sunny windowsill might suffice, but a heat mat underneath my tray provides the steady, bottom warmth my roots crave. Light is also crucial. As a seed that needs light to germinate, I should be barely covered with the growing medium. Once my cotyledons appear, I need abundant, bright light immediately. Without it, I will become "leggy," stretching weakly and pale towards any light source, resulting in a frail plant. A grow light positioned just a few inches above me for 12-16 hours a day is the best substitute for the strong spring sun.
As my true leaves—the first leaves that look like hollyhock leaves—develop, I am building the strength for my life outdoors. This is when you must begin to "harden me off." This is a critical period. Moving me directly from the stable, sheltered indoors to the harsh, windy, sunny outdoors would be a tremendous shock, potentially fatal. I need to be introduced gradually. Start by placing my container in a shaded, sheltered spot outdoors for just a few hours each day, slowly increasing the time and exposure to direct sunlight over 7-10 days. This process allows my leaves and stems to thicken and adapt to the real-world conditions of sun, wind, and fluctuating temperatures.
When all danger of frost has passed and I am fully hardened off, I am ready for my permanent home. Choose a location with full sun, where I can bask in its energy for most of the day. The soil should be rich and well-draining. When you plant me, be exceptionally gentle with my root ball, especially the taproot. If I am in a biodegradable pot, plant the entire pot, ensuring its rim is fully buried below the soil surface, as it can wick moisture away from my roots if exposed. Space me about 18 to 24 inches from other plants. I need this room to grow my large, leafy basal rosette in my first year, which will store the energy required to send up my magnificent flower spike in my second year.
