As a hardy water lily, my life cycle is intrinsically tied to the rhythms of the sun and water temperature. When the days grow shorter and the water in my pond begins to chill, I receive a clear signal from my environment: it is time to prepare for winter. My vibrant green lily pads will yellow and decay, and my beautiful flowers will cease to appear. Do not be alarmed; this is not death, but dormancy. I am essentially going to sleep. My vital energy retreats from my leaves and flowers down into my thick, tuber-like rhizome, which rests safely in the mud at the bottom of the pond. This rhizome is my survival storehouse, packed with the starches and nutrients I need to survive the cold months and re-emerge in the spring.
My primary need during winter is for my rhizome to remain dormant, not frozen solid. A deep freeze that penetrates my core tissues will cause fatal damage. Therefore, my survival depends on being in water that does not freeze completely. The most reliable method is if I am planted in a pond that is at least 18 to 24 inches deep. At this depth, even if the surface freezes solid for weeks, the water at the bottom will remain just above freezing, providing a stable, cold refuge. The key is consistency. I can handle being cold, but I cannot handle repeated freezing and thawing, which heaves and damages my rhizome. A blanket of ice and snow on the pond's surface can actually be beneficial, as it insulates the water below from drastic temperature swings.
If I am fortunate enough to live in a pond of sufficient depth, the easiest and most natural course of action is to leave me right where I am. As autumn progresses, you can trim my dying leaves and stems back to within a few inches of the crown of my rhizome. This is not for my immediate benefit, but to prevent decaying organic matter from fouling the water over the winter. Once this is done, you can largely forget about me. I will settle into the mud at the bottom, and the pond will become my insulator. It is crucial that the pond does not completely freeze solid. A small pond heater or an aerator can be used to maintain an opening in the ice, which is important for allowing harmful gases (from decomposing matter) to escape and oxygen to enter the water. This opening benefits the entire pond ecosystem, including any fish and, indirectly, me.
If my home pond is too shallow and is likely to freeze solid, I will need to be moved to a safer location for the winter. This process begins after my first frost, once I am fully dormant. Carefully lift my container from the pond. You will notice that my rhizome is firm and my growth has halted. Trim away all my remaining foliage. My next home for the winter should be a cool, dark place where the temperature remains consistently above freezing but below 50°F (10°C). An unheated garage, basement, or root cellar is perfect. The critical part is ensuring my rhizome does not dry out. Place my entire pot into a plastic bag or cover the soil with plastic wrap to retain moisture, and check periodically to ensure it remains slightly damp, but not waterlogged. Alternatively, you can submerge my pot in a large bucket of water in this cool location, which mimics my natural conditions even more closely.
My internal clock will tell me when it is time to wake up. When the danger of hard frost has passed and the water temperature in the pond steadily remains above 50°F (10°C), I will be ready to return. If I was stored in a container, you can gradually acclimate me by placing my pot in a shaded area before submerging it back into the shallow part of the pond. As the sun warms the water, I will send up my first new leaves—tiny, tight curls that will unfurl on the surface. At this point, you can begin a light feeding regimen to support my new growth. With the return of warmth and light, I will quickly regain my strength and prepare to grace the pond with my beauty for another season.
