As a Calla Lily, my life cycle is intrinsically tied to the rhythms of the sun and soil temperature. When the days shorten and the air carries a distinct chill, it is a signal I cannot ignore. My vibrant spathes, which you so admire, have long since faded. My broad, elegant leaves begin to yellow and wither. This is not a sign of sickness, but a critical biological process. I am withdrawing my energy. The chlorophyll that gave me my green hue is breaking down, and the precious sugars and starches produced during the summer are being transported from my leaves down into my subterranean storage organ – my bulb, or more accurately, my rhizome. This is the beginning of my dormancy, a deep sleep necessary for my survival through the harsh, frozen months ahead.
You must be patient and observant on my behalf. Do not be tempted to cut my foliage while it is still green. Those yellowing leaves are my solar panels, working to send the last reserves of energy down to my rhizome. Prematurely cutting them is like locking away my food supplies before I've had a chance to stock the pantry. Wait until the first frost blackens my leaves completely. At this point, my energy transfer is complete, and the foliage is no longer functional. Then, you can carefully cut the stems back to about 2 inches above the soil line. I am now fully reliant on the reserves stored within my thick, fleshy rhizome.
The next step is a delicate one. Using a garden fork, gently loosen the soil in a wide circle around my former above-ground presence. Please be careful; my rhizomes are brittle and can be easily damaged. Lift the entire clump from the ground, shaking off the loose soil. Do not wash me with water, as this can encourage rot during storage. Instead, let me dry in a warm, airy, and shaded location—like a garage or garden shed—for a few days. This curing process allows any minor wounds on my skin to callous over, creating a vital barrier against fungal infections. Once dry, you can gently separate the smaller offset rhizomes from the main mother rhizome if you wish. These are future plants, and handling them with care will ensure they thrive next season.
My survival through winter depends entirely on the environment you provide. I need a period of cool, dry rest, safe from freezing temperatures and dampness, which would cause me to rot or mold. The ideal storage location is a dark place with a consistent temperature between 50-60°F (10-15°C). An unheated basement, a cool garage (that doesn't freeze), or a cellar is perfect. Please do not store me near fruit, like apples, which release ethylene gas that can damage my dormant tissues.
To maintain the perfect balance of slight humidity without wetness, you should nestle me into a suitable medium. Place my cured rhizomes in a cardboard box, a wooden crate, or a paper bag. Do not use a plastic bag, as it traps moisture and will lead to my demise. Surround me with a loose, dry material such as peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. The goal is to have each rhizome separated and surrounded by this insulating material, which will wick away any excess moisture while preventing them from drying out completely and shriveling. Think of it as a soft, dry blanket for my long nap.
While I am dormant, I am not entirely without needs. About once a month during the winter, it is wise to check on me. Look for any signs of shriveling, which indicates the air is too dry, or any soft, mushy spots, which signal the onset of rot. A slightly shriveled rhizome can be lightly misted with water, but a rotting one must be removed immediately to protect the others. This simple check ensures that I remain in a healthy, preserved state, ready for my spring reawakening.
