Before you begin, you must understand my most important feature: the node. I am a vine, and my life force is concentrated at these points along my stem. A node is that slightly swollen, ring-like area where a leaf attaches, and sometimes you'll see a little brownish nub there – that's an aerial root. This node is my command center for new growth. It contains the meristematic cells, which are like my stem cells, capable of becoming either a new leaf or a new root system. A cutting without a node is just a pretty leaf; it will look nice in water for a while but will never become a new plant. You must include at least one node in every cutting you take.
When you decide to propagate me, please be gentle and precise. Use a clean, sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears. I respond best to a clean cut, as it minimizes damage and reduces my risk of infection. Look for a healthy stem with at least one or two leaves. Make your cut about an inch below a node on a section of stem. This gives my new roots plenty of space to emerge. You can also take a top cutting, which includes the terminal end of my stem with a few leaves; this will continue to grow upwards as a new plant. After the cut, you might see me "bleed" a little sap; this is normal. You can let it callous over for an hour or so, which helps prevent rot when I'm placed in my new medium.
Placing my cutting in water is like giving me a clear-view incubator. It allows you to monitor the progress of my roots, which is exciting for you and reassuring for me. Submerge the node and any aerial roots completely in a jar of room-temperature water, but make sure my leaves stay dry and above the rim. Place my jar in a spot with bright, indirect light. Direct sun will heat the water and stress me. Change the water every few days to keep it oxygenated and prevent the growth of algae and bacteria that could harm me. In a few weeks, you'll see white, fuzzy-looking roots beginning to emerge from the node. Let these roots grow until they are a few inches long, with secondary roots branching off. This robust system gives me the best chance when I transition to soil.
If you choose to plant me directly into soil, you are simulating a more natural growth process for me. Prepare a pot with a well-draining aroid mix; I despise having my roots sit in soggy soil. A blend of potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark is perfect for me. After taking the cutting, you can dip the node in a rooting hormone powder to encourage me, though it's not strictly necessary. Plant my cutting so that the node is buried just below the surface, and the stem and leaves are supported. Water the soil thoroughly initially to settle it around my node. The key now is to keep the soil consistently moist but not wet. You can create a mini-greenhouse by placing a clear plastic bag over the pot to maintain humidity, which I love. The downside is that you can't see my root progress, so you must trust that I am working underground. Gently tug on the cutting after a few weeks; if there's resistance, it means my roots have anchored.
If you started me in water, the transition to soil is a critical time. My water roots are different from soil roots, and I need to adapt. Plant me in a well-draining pot and keep the soil consistently moist for the first few weeks to help me acclimate. I may droop a little as I adjust; this is normal. Whether you started me in water or soil, once I am established, treat me as you would any mature Monstera. Provide me with bright, indirect light, water me when the top few inches of soil are dry, and offer me a moss pole or trellis to climb. With your care, I will reward you with my magnificent, split leaves for years to come.
