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How to save an overwatered succulent from root rot.

Lydia Rodarte-Quayle
2025-09-24 05:27:44

From my perspective as a succulent, an overwatering incident is a terrifying crisis. My roots, which are designed to thrive in dry, gritty soil, are suddenly drowning. The oxygen I need is gone, replaced by suffocating water. This is when the rot sets in—a silent, creeping death that starts below the soil line. But if my caretaker acts swiftly and correctly, there is hope for my survival. Here is what I need you to do.

1. The Emergency Evacuation: Unpotting and Diagnosis

First, you must get me out of that soggy prison. Gently tip the pot and ease me out. Be careful; my leaves and stems are likely stressed and more fragile than usual. Once I'm free, gently remove the wet soil from my roots. You can use a soft brush or rinse them gently under a lukewarm tap. Now, inspect my root system carefully. Healthy roots should be firm and white or light tan. Rotted roots will be mushy, dark brown or black, and may have a foul smell. This is the enemy that must be completely removed.

2. The Surgical Procedure: Trushing the Rotted Roots

This step is critical. Using a pair of clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears (sterilized with rubbing alcohol), you must cut away every single piece of rotted root. There can be no compromise here. Any rot left behind will continue to spread up through my stem, sealing my fate. Cut back until you see only healthy, firm tissue. It's better to be aggressive now than regretful later. If the rot has traveled up into my stem, you must also cut away the affected part of the stem until the cross-section is clean and green. It might seem drastic, but it's my only chance.

3. The Crucial Recovery Period: Letting Me Callus Over

After the amputation, I have open wounds. If you pot me immediately, those wounds would be vulnerable to infection in the damp soil, starting the whole rotten cycle again. I need time to form a protective layer, called a callus, over the cuts. Place me in a warm, dry, and shaded spot with good air circulation. Do not put me in direct sunlight, as I am too vulnerable to get sunburned. This process typically takes anywhere from three days to a week. You'll know I'm ready when the cut ends feel dry and hard to the touch.

4. A New Home: Repotting in the Right Environment

My old pot and soil were part of the problem. You must repot me in a fresh, dry, fast-draining succulent or cactus mix. You can even improve the mix by adding extra perlite or pumice for better drainage. The pot is equally important. It must have a drainage hole—this is non-negotiable. Terracotta pots are excellent because they are porous and allow the soil to dry out more quickly. When repotting, place me gently on top of the new soil and fill in around what's left of my roots. Do not water me yet.

5. The New Watering Protocol: Patience is Key

This is the most common mistake during recovery. After repotting, you must resist the urge to water me for at least a week. My tiny, traumatized root system needs time to settle and, most importantly, to start seeking out moisture. Watering now would only shock me and risk re-introducing rot. After this waiting period, you can give me a thorough watering, ensuring excess water flows freely out of the drainage hole. Then, you must let the soil dry out completely before even thinking about watering again. From now on, always check the soil with your finger—if it's dry an inch or two down, it's safe to water. If it's damp, wait.

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