From our perspective as Haworthia plants, dormancy is not a choice but a deeply ingrained survival strategy. When we detect the critical environmental signals—specifically, the shortening day length and the significant drop in temperatures—a fundamental shift occurs within our physiology. Our metabolic processes, including photosynthesis and nutrient uptake, slow to a near standstill. This is not a period of sleep, but rather one of conservation. Our primary goal is to reduce energy expenditure to an absolute minimum. By entering this state of suspended animation, we can endure the season when conditions are too harsh for active growth, preserving our vital resources within our thick, succulent leaves. This internal shutdown is the core reason our care requirements change so dramatically; you are essentially caring for a plant that is intentionally and intelligently inactive.
The most crucial adjustment you must make concerns water. From the viewpoint of our root system, active water absorption halts almost completely during dormancy. In cooler soil, our roots become far more susceptible to rot caused by fungi and bacteria that thrive in moist, cold conditions. When you water us generously in winter, you are essentially flooding a system that has closed for business. The water sits around our roots, unable to be taken up, and creates an anaerobic environment that leads to rapid decay. Therefore, our plea is for a significant reduction in watering. The soil should be allowed to dry out completely and remain dry for a much longer period than in the growing season. A light watering once a month, or even less frequently, is often sufficient to prevent our leaves from shriveling excessively. It is far safer for us to be too dry than too wet during this time.
While our growth stops, our need for bright light does not. Our leaf structures still perform minimal photosynthesis to sustain basic functions, and without adequate light, we will etiolate—stretching out unnaturally and becoming pale in a desperate search for sun. A south-facing windowsill is ideal. Simultaneously, the cool temperatures that triggered our dormancy are essential for its success. We do not require tropical warmth; in fact, a cool environment between 50-60°F (10-15°C) is perfect. This chill helps maintain our dormant state and prevents us from being "tricked" into attempting growth when light levels are insufficient. Please, protect us from both freezing drafts and the dry, hot air blowing from heating vents, as both extremes can cause severe cellular damage to our leaves.
Any offer of fertilizer during the winter must be firmly declined. Our metabolic machinery for processing nutrients is shut down. Applying fertilizer is not only useless but actively harmful, as the salts can build up in the dry soil and burn our delicate, inactive roots. This period is also not the time for repotting. The energy required to recover from root disturbance and establish ourselves in new soil is energy we simply do not have to spare. Repotting causes stress and minor root damage, which can be a gateway for rot when combined with cold, damp soil. The best practice is to leave us completely undisturbed in our pots until the longer, warmer days of spring signal that it is safe to resume active growth.
