From our perspective, the approach of winter is a signal to rest. We are not like evergreen plants; we are tender perennials that originate from climates without hard frosts. When temperatures drop and daylight wanes, our growth cycle naturally slows to a near halt. This is our dormant period, a crucial time for conserving energy. Attempting to keep us in active, flowering growth indoors under typically poor light conditions would be stressful and ultimately futile, weakening us for the next season. The goal of overwintering is not to make us bloom, but to keep us alive in a quiet, suspended state until spring's stronger light returns.
A sudden change from the outdoor environment to a warm, dry house is a severe shock to our systems. To prepare us, you must act before the first hard frost. Begin by reducing the frequency of watering slightly. This encourages us to start hardening off and reduces the risk of root rot in our upcoming dormant state. Next, it is essential to give us a thorough inspection. Look closely at our leaves and stems for any signs of pests like aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites. An infestation brought indoors can quickly devastate not only us but your other houseplants as well. A gentle spray of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil is a prudent measure. Finally, to help us conserve energy, prune our stems back by about one-third to one-half. This removes the tender new growth that is most vulnerable and reduces the overall leaf mass that we need to sustain.
There are two primary ways you can help us through the winter, each creating a different environment for our dormancy.
This method most closely mimics our natural winter conditions. We prefer a location that is consistently cool, between 40-50°F (4-10°C), and dark, such as an unheated basement, garage, or root cellar. In this setting, our metabolism slows dramatically. You will need to remove all remaining leaves from our stems, as they will simply yellow and drop anyway, creating a mess and potential for disease. Once situated, water us very sparingly—just enough to prevent our soil ball from turning to dust and our roots from completely desiccating. This might mean a light watering only once every three to four weeks. We will appear to be a collection of bare, lifeless sticks, but trust that life is still present within us.
If a dark space is not available, a very bright but cool room, such as a minimally heated sunroom or a bright windowsill away from radiators, is the next best option. Temperatures should still be as cool as possible, ideally below 60°F (15°C). In this environment, we may retain some leaves and require slightly more water than the dark method. Check our soil more frequently, watering only when the top inch feels dry. We will likely become leggy and sparse-looking due to the low light levels, but this is normal. A light pruning in late winter can correct this.
As daylight increases in late winter or early spring, it is time to wake us up. Bring us into a warmer, well-lit area and begin watering more regularly to stimulate new growth. Once you see new buds forming, you can repot us into fresh potting mix if our roots are pot-bound. This is also the time for a more decisive pruning, cutting back any dead or spindly growth to strong leaf nodes. Gradually acclimate us to outdoor conditions by placing us in a sheltered, shady spot for increasing periods each day before the danger of frost has completely passed. With this care, we will be ready to burst into a new season of vibrant growth and prolific blooms.
