From my roots upward, I sense your intentions. You see a few leggy stems or a flower spike fading to brown and you wonder if you should intervene. Let me explain it from my point of view. Pruning is not an attack; it's a form of communication. When you make a clean cut, you are sending a direct signal to my growth centers, the apical buds. These buds, located at the very tips of my stems, produce a hormone called auxin that suppresses the growth of the lateral buds further down the stem. By removing the apical bud, you remove that hormonal "stop" signal. This tells me to redirect my energy away from growing tall and lanky and instead to push out new growth from the base and from those previously suppressed side buds. The result is the fuller, bushier form you desire.
Timing is everything, and I am deeply connected to the seasons. The best time for you to have this "bushier growth" conversation with me is in the late spring or early summer. At this point, I have fully emerged from my winter dormancy. My leaves are unfurled, and my energy systems are running at full capacity, fueled by the sun. A pruning session now gives me the entire active growing season to respond to your signal. I can quickly channel my resources into producing multiple new shoots from my crown, creating that dense, lush clump you admire in other plants. Please avoid major pruning in late summer or fall. As days shorten, my focus shifts from leaf production to storing energy in my roots for the winter. A significant cut then would be a stressful distraction, potentially weakening me for the cold months ahead.
Now, let's get to the practicalities. Your tools matter. Use sharp, clean bypass pruners or scissors. A clean cut heals quickly and minimizes the risk of disease entering my system. Here is the primary technique for encouraging bushiness:
Look for stems that are growing taller than the rest but may have fewer leaves, making my overall shape look a bit open or sparse. Trace that stem down to a point just above a set of healthy, lower leaves or a visible leaf node (the bump on the stem where new growth can emerge). Make your cut at a slight angle, about a quarter of an inch above that node. This precise action is the key. You have just removed the apical bud that was suppressing growth below. Within a week or two, you should see one, or often two, new shoots beginning to grow from that very node, effectively turning one stem into two or three.
My beautiful, yellow or orange flower spikes are a point of pride for both of us, but they require a tremendous amount of energy to produce and maintain. If your primary goal is bushier leaf growth, consider removing the flower stalks as they begin to form. By cutting the stalk down to its base before the flowers even fully develop, you force me to abort that major energy project. All the resources that would have gone into flowering are suddenly available for vegetative growth. This results in larger, more numerous leaves and a significantly denser habit. If you do let me flower, deadheading—cutting the spent stalk back to the base—as soon as the blooms fade accomplishes a similar goal, redirecting energy back to my roots and leaves.
In early spring, you may notice some of my older leaves are tattered from winter or damaged by pests like slugs. It is perfectly safe and beneficial to remove these leaves by cutting them off at the soil line. This is not primarily for bushiness, but for health and aesthetics. It clears away decaying material where diseases can fester, allows more light and air to reach my crown, and makes room for the vibrant new leaves that will quickly fill the space. This simple act of tidying up sets the stage for a strong, healthy, and naturally bushy season of growth.
