From my perspective as a Schefflera arboricola, the best time for you to take a cutting is when I am at my peak of active growth. This is typically from late spring through summer. During this period, the sun is strong, the days are long, and my internal systems are operating at maximum efficiency. My stems are supple yet mature enough (semi-hardwood), and the meristematic tissues—the cells responsible for new growth—are highly active. This vitality is crucial because the cutting, once separated from me, must rely entirely on its own stored energy and hormonal signals to create new roots. Attempting this in winter, when I am dormant, is often unsuccessful because my metabolic processes have slowed down to conserve energy for survival, not for the taxing work of regeneration.
When you choose a stem to propagate, look for a healthy, vigorous shoot that is about 4 to 6 inches long. It should have several leaf nodes—those slightly raised bumps on the stem where leaves emerge. This is where the magic happens; both roots and new shoots will develop from these nodes. The most critical part of this process from my viewpoint is the cut itself. You must use a sharp, sterilized blade—a knife or pruning shears wiped with rubbing alcohol is ideal. A clean, angled cut just below a leaf node minimizes damage to my vascular tissues and reduces the risk of pathogenic infection. A crushing or ragged tear from dull scissors can damage the delicate cells and invite rot, dooming the cutting before it even has a chance.
Once separated, the cutting's priorities shift instantly from growth to survival and root establishment. To reduce water loss through transpiration, you should remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of the stem. However, it is vital to leave at least two or three healthy leaves at the top. These leaves are essential as they will continue to perform photosynthesis, creating the carbohydrates needed to fuel root development. Some growers recommend dipping the cut end into a rooting hormone powder. From my cellular level, this is a helpful boost. Rooting hormones contain auxins, which are plant hormones that I naturally produce to stimulate root formation. The powder provides a concentrated dose right where it's needed, encouraging faster and more robust root initiation.
The medium you place me in is my entire world. It must be sterile and provide a perfect balance of moisture and oxygen. A mix of peat and perlite or coarse sand is excellent. It holds enough moisture to prevent my stem from drying out but is well-draining to avoid waterlogging, which would suffocate my tissues and cause rot. After inserting the cutting into a pre-moistened pot of this medium, you must create a humid microenvironment. Covering the pot with a clear plastic bag or placing it in a propagator mimics a miniature greenhouse. This high humidity drastically reduces water loss from my remaining leaves, a life-saving measure since I have no roots yet to take up water. Place me in a location with bright, indirect light. Direct sun would cook me inside the plastic tent, but too little light would halt photosynthesis.
This is a period of immense internal activity, even if nothing is visible on the surface. Inside the stem, cells are dividing and differentiating, organizing themselves into the beginnings of a new root system. This process can take several weeks. You will know it is working when you feel a slight resistance when giving the cutting a very gentle tug. This indicates that roots have formed and are anchoring me into the medium. Soon after, you should see new green shoots emerging from the leaf nodes. This is the ultimate sign of success—the cutting has successfully transitioned from a dependent piece of a larger plant into a self-sustaining individual. Once new growth is evident, you can gradually acclimate me to less humid conditions and begin a regular watering and feeding schedule.
