As the days grow shorter and the sunlight weakens, I, a Black-eyed Susan, receive the signal that my blooming season is concluding. My primary goal shifts from producing bright yellow flowers and seeds to ensuring my survival through the cold months. Above ground, my energy-intensive processes are slowing down. My leaves may start to look tired, spotted, or brown—this is a natural part of my cycle. I am deliberately withdrawing valuable nutrients, like nitrogen and sugars, from my foliage and stems back down into my root system. This underground network, whether it's a clumping crown or a web of rhizomes, is my lifeline. It's my pantry and my anchor, and I am busy stockpiling reserves there to fuel my first push of growth in the spring.
This is a common question my caretakers have. From my perspective, there are benefits to both approaches. If you choose to leave my stems and seed heads standing through winter, you provide me with a significant survival advantage. The tall, stiff stalks catch falling leaves and snow, which creates a natural, insulating mulch layer around my crown. This protects my roots from extreme temperature fluctuations and freezing winds. Furthermore, the seed heads are a crucial food source for birds like goldfinches, who feast on the seeds. This not only supports the local ecosystem but also gives you the joy of watching wildlife in your garden.
Alternatively, if you prefer a tidier garden bed, you may cut my stems back. If you do this, please wait until after a few hard frosts have truly ended my growing season. Cutting me back too early interrupts my vital process of nutrient withdrawal. When you cut, leave a good 2 to 4 inches of stubble above the soil line. These hollow stems act like tiny chimneys, trapping insulating air and also serving as an overwintering habitat for beneficial native bees and other insects. The key is to avoid cutting me right to the ground.
Whether my stems are left standing or cut back, the most critical area for my winter survival is the soil surrounding my crown. A layer of mulch applied *after* the ground has frozen solid is like tucking me in with a warm blanket. The purpose is not to keep me warm, but to keep me consistently cold. It prevents the cycle of freeze-thaw-freeze that can be very damaging. When the soil repeatedly heaves with temperature changes, it can push my roots right out of the ground, exposing them to drying winds and killing cold. A 2 to 4-inch layer of shredded leaves, straw, or bark mulch applied in late fall acts as a buffer, maintaining a more stable soil temperature and moisture level. Please do not pile mulch directly on top of my crown; a light, airy layer spread around the base is perfect.
When the soil warms in spring, the energy I stored so diligently in my roots will surge upward. If you left my seed heads standing, you will see new, green basal leaves (leaves growing from the base of the plant) emerging from the center of my clump. If you cut me back, the new growth will sprout from the crown protected by the winter mulch. The stubble you left behind also helps mark my location, so you don't accidentally disturb me during early spring gardening. As the weather stabilizes, you can gently rake away the bulk of the winter mulch to allow the soil to warm and my new shoots to receive full sunlight. The robust root system you helped protect will allow me to grow vigorously, producing strong stems and an abundance of the cheerful, daisy-like flowers you love.
