From our perspective, the process begins with the natural conclusion of our annual growth cycle. As autumn approaches and daylight wanes, we sense the changing seasons. Our above-ground foliage will begin to yellow and wither. This is not a sign of distress but a critical biological signal. We are translocating valuable energy—photosynthates and nutrients—from our dying leaves down into our corm, the storage organ at our base. This energy is what will fuel next year's growth and spectacular bloom. Please do not cut back green foliage, as this interrupts our vital energy storage process. Wait until the leaves have turned brown, indicating this transfer is complete.
Once our foliage has yellowed or been blackened by the first light frost, it is time to lift us from the earth. Using a spading fork, carefully loosen the soil in a wide circle around the base of our stems. Insert the fork deep enough to avoid spearing our corms, then gently lift the entire cluster. We are delicate at this stage; bruising or cutting us can create entry points for rot pathogens. Shake off the loose soil, but avoid vigorous washing, as a thin layer of dry soil can help protect us during the initial curing phase.
After lifting, we require a period of curing or drying. This is a vital step to ensure our long-term survival. Leave our foliage attached and place us in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated location out of direct sunlight for about two to three weeks. This process allows our outer layers to dry and toughen into a protective tunic, and the remaining nutrients in the foliage to fully descend into the corm. The old, now-flattened corm from this year's growth will be attached to the base of the new, plump corm; they will often separate naturally during this drying period.
Once we are thoroughly dry and the foliage crumbles easily, it is time for final preparation. Snap or cut off the dried stem about an inch above the new corm. Gently remove the old, shriveled corm from the bottom of the new one; it should detach easily. Also, remove the small cormels (cormlets) that have formed around the base—these can be stored separately and grown into flowering-sized corms in subsequent years. Lightly dust us with a fungicide powder or food-grade diatomaceous earth to protect against fungal infections and insects during storage. This is a preventative measure for our health.
Our stored energy must be preserved in a state of suspended animation. Place us in a breathable container, such as a mesh bag, a paper bag, or a crate lined with dry newspaper. The ideal storage environment is cool, dark, and dry, with temperatures consistently between 35°F and 50°F (2°C and 10°C). A basement, unheated garage, or a cool closet often provides these conditions. Crucially, the environment must have good air circulation to prevent moisture buildup, which would cause us to mold or rot, and be safe from rodents who find us a tasty winter snack. Check on us periodically throughout the winter to ensure we remain firm and healthy.
