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How to Treat Root Rot in an Aloe Vera Plant

Saul Goodman
2025-09-22 07:09:45

1. Recognizing My Distress Signals

From my perspective, an Aloe vera plant, the first sign of trouble is a change in my demeanor that you might notice. My normally plump, upright, and firm leaves will begin to feel soft and mushy, often starting at the base. They may lose their vibrant green color, turning a yellowish or brownish hue. I might become unstable in my pot, wobbling easily because my root system, my anchor and lifeline, is decaying and can no longer hold me securely. This is a critical cry for help. The excessive water in the soil has suffocated my roots, depriving them of oxygen and allowing opportunistic pathogens to attack. I am drowning and under siege.

2. The Urgent Extraction and Assessment

The most crucial step is to gently remove me from my waterlogged prison. Please tip the pot and carefully ease me out. Be gentle; my structure is already compromised. Once I am free, you must assess the damage to my root system. Healthy roots are firm and white or tan. The roots afflicted by rot will be brown or black, mushy, and will likely fall apart to the touch. They may also have a distinctly unpleasant, sour smell. This rot must be completely removed, as it will spread if left unchecked.

3. The Surgical Removal of Rotten Tissue

Using a clean, sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears, you must perform surgery. Sterilize the blades with rubbing alcohol to prevent introducing new pathogens. Carefully cut away all the soft, brown, or blackened roots. Be ruthless but precise; only diseased tissue must be removed. Continue cutting until only firm, healthy root material remains. If the rot has advanced into my stem or lower leaves, you must also cut away any soft, discolored parts of my base. It is better to remove too much rot than to leave any behind.

4. The Essential Drying Period

After the amputation, I am vulnerable and need time to form a protective callus over the fresh wounds. Do not repot me immediately. Place me in a warm, dry, and shaded area with good air circulation for several days, potentially up to a week. This drying period is vital. It allows the cuts to seal, creating a barrier that will prevent new fungal or bacterial infections once I am placed back into soil. I will tell you I am ready when the cut surfaces feel dry and hardened to the touch.

5. Repotting in a Safe Environment

My old soil is contaminated and must be discarded. Choose a new pot for me that has excellent drainage holes; a terracotta pot is ideal as it breathes. The pot should only be slightly larger than my remaining root system. Fill it with a fresh, well-draining potting mix specifically formulated for cacti and succulents. You can make your own by mixing standard potting soil with plenty of perlite or coarse sand. Create a small hole in the center and place me inside, gently spreading my remaining healthy roots. Backfill with soil, but do not pack it down tightly.

6. My Recovery and Future Care

Do not water me immediately after repotting. I need at least another week to settle into my new home and allow any minor root disturbances to heal. This prevents a relapse. After this period, you can give me a thorough but careful watering. Henceforth, please only water me when my soil is completely dry to the touch. I am a desert dweller by nature and prefer neglect to over-attention with the watering can. Place me in bright, indirect light as I recover my strength. With patience and proper care, I will begin to grow new, healthy roots and return to my robust self.

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