From our perspective, the vibrant red, white, or pink "flowers" you admire are not flowers at all. They are specialized leaves called bracts. The actual flowers are the small, yellow, button-like clusters (cyathia) in the center of these bracts. The holiday season is our peak display, orchestrated by specific light conditions. After Christmas, this show concludes. We enter a natural period of rest and recovery. The colorful bracts will eventually fade and may drop, which is a normal part of our lifecycle, not a sign of failure. This is the time to shift your care strategy to help us recuperate and prepare for future growth.
As we enter this dormant phase, our metabolic processes slow down significantly. Our water requirements drop dramatically. Continuing to water us as you did during the active display will lead to root rot, our most common cause of demise. Please allow the soil to dry out almost completely between waterings. Check by feeling the top inch of soil; only provide a thorough watering when it is dry to the touch. Ensure any excess water can drain freely from the pot, as we despise sitting in soggy soil. This period of drier conditions mimics our natural dry season and is crucial for our health.
We still need bright, indirect light to photosynthesize and maintain our strength, even while resting. Place us near a sunny window. However, we remain extremely sensitive to drafts and temperature fluctuations. Keep us away from cold windows, heating vents, fireplaces, and frequently opened exterior doors. Ideal temperatures for us are between 60-70°F (15-21°C). Exposure to cold drafts can cause severe leaf drop, shocking our system and depleting our energy reserves.
Around late March or April, you will notice new green growth emerging. This is our signal that we are exiting dormancy. Now is the time to cut our stems back to about 4-6 inches in height. This pruning encourages bushier, more vigorous growth. Repot us into a slightly larger container with fresh, well-draining potting mix. As our growth accelerates, you can begin regular watering and start a monthly feeding schedule with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. We appreciate being moved outdoors for the summer if possible, placed in a spot with partial shade and protected from strong winds.
To get our bracts to turn color again for the next holiday season, we require a very specific light regimen. We are what botanists call "short-day plants," meaning we need long periods of uninterrupted darkness to initiate color change. Starting in late September or early October, we need at least 14 hours of complete, absolute darkness each night for 8-10 weeks. This means placing us in a closet or covering us with a large box from early evening until morning, ensuring no light pollution. During the day, we still need 6-8 hours of bright, indirect sunlight. If this strict routine is maintained, you should start to see our bracts developing their festive color by late November.
