From my perspective as a plant, the best time for you to take my cuttings is when I am in my most vigorous growth phase. This is typically in late spring or early summer, after my main bloom but while the weather is still warm and the days are long. My stems are firm yet flexible at this time, neither too soft and succulent nor too old and woody. This state, which you might call "semi-ripe," is ideal because it holds abundant energy and the cellular machinery is primed for rapid root development. Taking cuttings in the intense heat of midsummer can cause undue stress, and doing so in autumn may not give my new roots enough time to establish before winter's dormancy calls.
Please choose a healthy, non-flowering stem tip from my main body. A flowering stem is directing its energy towards bloom and seed production, not root creation. Look for a section about 4-6 inches long with several leaf nodes. Using a sharp, clean blade is crucial; a crushing or dirty cut invites pathogens that could rot me before I even have a chance. Make the cut just below a node, as this area, called the meristem, is rich in undifferentiated cells that will readily form adventitious roots. Immediately remove the lower leaves, leaving only two or three at the top. This reduces surface area for water loss through transpiration and prevents any leaves from being buried and succumbing to decay.
My future depends entirely on the environment you provide. I require a well-draining, low-fertility medium to root. A mix of perlite and peat or a specialized seed-starting mix is perfect. It holds enough moisture around my stem but allows excess water to drain away, preventing oxygen deprivation and rot. Before you place me in the medium, you may dip my cut end in a rooting hormone powder. This is not strictly necessary, but it gives me a significant boost by supplying auxins—the very hormones I produce naturally to stimulate root growth. It helps me get started faster and more reliably.
Once planted, my sole focus is survival. I have no roots to draw water, so I rely on the humidity around my remaining leaves. Placing a clear plastic bag or dome over my pot creates a miniature greenhouse, drastically reducing water loss and keeping my cells turgid. Please place me in a location with very bright, but indirect, light. Direct sun would cook me in my humid enclosure. Over the next 2-4 weeks, my internal biological processes are working tirelessly. The auxins mobilize stored energy and nutrients to the cut site, triggering the formation of a callus and then delicate, white root primordia. You must resist the urge to tug on me to check for roots; you will damage these fragile initial structures. Instead, look for signs of new top growth—a sure signal that my roots have established and I am ready to support more leaves.
When you see new growth, my root system is functional but still delicate. You can now begin to harden me off. Gradually open the plastic cover over a week to acclimatize me to the lower humidity of your home. This slow process prevents me from going into shock. Once acclimated, you can treat me like a mature geranium. Water me when the top inch of soil feels dry and provide me with plenty of direct sunlight. In a few weeks, you can pinch my growing tip; this encourages me to branch out and become a bushier, stronger plant, ready to eventually produce a magnificent display of flowers for you.
