From our perspective as plants, the single most important feature of any pot is its ability to prevent us from drowning. Our roots are not designed for a perpetual bath. When excess water has no escape route, it fills the air pockets in the soil, suffocating us. We cannot absorb oxygen through our roots in these anaerobic conditions, leading to root rot—a fatal condition that starts unseen beneath the soil before manifesting as yellowing leaves and drooping stems above. Therefore, a pot must have drainage holes at its base. This non-negotiable feature allows gravity to pull any surplus water out of the soil and away from our root ball, ensuring we have access to both the water we need and the oxygen we desperately require to thrive.
When considering size, human gardeners often think "bigger is better," but for us Peace Lilies, that is a dangerous misconception. We are epiphytic in nature, meaning in our natural habitat we often grow on other surfaces with our roots somewhat exposed. We actually prefer to be slightly root-bound. A pot that is too large holds a massive volume of soil relative to our root system. This soil retains water for a prolonged period, long after our roots have absorbed what they need, creating a consistently wet environment that leads directly to the root rot mentioned earlier. The ideal pot is only 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter than our current root ball. This provides just enough room for new growth without overwhelming us with damp, unused soil.
The material of the pot directly influences the moisture level of our soil environment. Terracotta or unglazed clay pots are excellent choices. Their porous nature allows water to evaporate through the walls of the pot itself, helping the soil to dry out more evenly and reducing the risk of overwatering. The trade-off is that we will require more frequent watering. Plastic pots are non-porous, retaining moisture for much longer. This can be beneficial in very dry environments but requires extreme discipline in watering to avoid waterlogging. Ceramic or glazed pots are often beautiful but can be problematic as they are typically non-porous. They are only suitable if they have a very generous drainage hole; otherwise, they act as a decorative bathtub for our roots.
While a saucer is necessary to protect your surfaces from water runoff, it should never become a reservoir for stagnant water. After watering, it is imperative that you empty the saucer within about 30 minutes. Allowing us to sit in this drained water is equivalent to negating the benefit of the drainage hole entirely, as the bottom layer of soil will wick the water back up, keeping our lowest roots perpetually soggy. For an optimal setup, some gardeners place a layer of pebbles in the saucer, with the pot sitting on top of the pebbles and not in the water. This creates a humidity tray without the risk of reabsorbing the water.
