We hollyhocks are traditionally known for our towering spires in cottage gardens, but we can adapt to container life with the right care. Our most fundamental need is sunlight. To thrive and produce our best blooms, we require a minimum of six to eight hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day. A south-facing patio or balcony is ideal for us. Without sufficient light, our stems become weak and leggy, struggling to support our flower weight, and our bloom production will be disappointingly sparse.
Our root systems are surprisingly large and taproot-like, requiring significant space to anchor our tall growth. A small pot will cause us to become root-bound, stressed, and likely topple over. You must choose a container that is both deep and wide; we recommend a minimum of 16 inches in depth and 18 inches in diameter for a single plant. The material is also crucial. A heavy pot, like one made of ceramic, concrete, or thick wood, is preferable to lightweight plastic as it provides the necessary stability to counterbalance our height and prevent us from blowing over in a strong wind. Most critically, the container must have excellent drainage holes. We despise sitting in waterlogged soil, as it quickly leads to root rot, a fatal condition for us.
We are not overly fussy about soil but demand a mix that provides excellent drainage while retaining some moisture and nutrients. A high-quality, well-draining commercial potting mix is suitable. Do not use garden soil, as it compacts in containers and suffocates our roots. To further improve drainage and aeration, you can mix in a handful of perlite or coarse sand. We are considered heavy feeders, especially during our blooming period. At planting time, mix a slow-release, balanced fertilizer into the soil. Then, once we begin to form flower buds, feed us every two to three weeks with a liquid fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number on the fertilizer package) to encourage prolific and vibrant blooming.
Our watering needs are specific. We prefer consistent moisture, but never sogginess. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist, like a wrung-out sponge. Please water us deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch, allowing water to flow freely from the drainage holes. Avoid overhead watering, which can leave water on our leaves and make us highly susceptible to rust, a common fungal disease. Instead, water us at the soil level. Good air circulation around our leaves on your balcony or patio also helps keep this disease at bay. Regularly check our foliage and remove any affected leaves immediately.
Most of us are biennials, meaning we focus on leaf growth in our first year and bloom in our second year before setting seed and dying. However, some modern cultivars are true perennials or even annuals. Given our height, which can still reach 4 to 6 feet even in a container, we require staking. Please install a sturdy stake at the time of planting to avoid damaging our roots later. Gently tie our main stem to the stake as we grow using soft plant ties. Deadheading spent blooms will encourage more flowers and prevent us from putting energy into seed production, though you may choose to leave a few to self-sow for future generations.
