From our perspective, the most immediate challenge is the drastic change in environment. We are highly sensitive to shifts in light intensity, air movement, and temperature. Outdoors, we are accustomed to the full spectrum of the sun's rays, consistent breezes that strengthen our stems, and the natural, often significant, drop in nighttime temperatures. Moving indoors abruptly places us in a state of shock. The light is often dramatically dimmer and one-directional from a window, the air is still and dry, and the temperature is consistently warm. This shock can manifest as drooping leaves, a halt in flowering, and even yellowing foliage as we struggle to adapt our photosynthetic and respiratory processes to these new, less ideal conditions.
To mitigate this shock, you must mimic the gradual seasonal changes we experience in nature. Do not move us directly from the garden to your living room. Instead, begin the process over 7-10 days. Start by placing us in a shaded, sheltered outdoor spot for a few days, away from intense direct sun and wind. Then, move us to a bright, protected porch or garage for another few days. Finally, introduce us to our final indoor location. This step-by-step process allows our cellular functions to slowly adjust their rates of photosynthesis and transpiration to the lower light and humidity levels found indoors, reducing the risk of severe leaf drop and stress-induced dormancy.
Once indoors, our health depends on you replicating our preferred outdoor conditions as closely as possible. Light is our primary energy source; we require the brightest spot you can provide. A south-facing window is ideal, where we can receive at least 6 hours of bright, indirect light daily. Rotate our pot a quarter turn weekly to prevent us from leaning grotesquely towards the light source. Temperature is equally crucial. We thrive in cool conditions, with ideal temperatures between 50-60°F (10-15°C) at night and not exceeding 68°F (20°C) during the day. A consistently warm room will cause our foliage to yellow and significantly shorten our flowering period.
Our watering needs change significantly indoors. Evaporation is slower due to reduced light and air circulation, making us highly susceptible to root rot. You must allow the top inch of our soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Always water deeply at the base of our plant, ensuring excess water drains freely away—never let our roots sit in a saucer of water. Furthermore, the limited soil volume in a container means nutrients are quickly depleted. To support continued growth and potential flowering, feed us with a half-strength, balanced liquid fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during our active growth period, but cease feeding once we show signs of entering dormancy.
It is important to understand that after our blooming period indoors, we will naturally begin to senesce. Our leaves will yellow and wither as we redirect energy back to our tuberous roots for storage. This is not a sign of failure but a natural part of our life cycle. When this happens, gradually reduce watering until the foliage has completely died back. Then, you can store our dormant tubers in a cool, dark, and dry place until it is time to replant us outdoors when the danger of frost has passed, and the cycle can begin anew.
