From our perspective, the question of watering frequency is not about a fixed schedule but about maintaining an optimal environment for our root system. We are not true bamboos but a type of Dracaena (Dracaena sanderiana), and our water needs are specific. Our roots require consistent moisture but are highly susceptible to rot if left sitting in stagnant water. The goal is to keep our roots and the growing medium (whether water, pebbles, or soil) pleasantly moist, akin to a wrung-out sponge, never sopping wet and never bone dry.
The medium in which we are planted dictates your watering strategy. If we are growing in water, the rule is simple: always ensure our roots are submerged. You should refresh the water completely every seven to ten days. Stagnant water loses oxygen and can lead to the buildup of salts and bacteria, which will suffocate and poison our roots. If we are planted in soil, the need for observation is greater. You must check the top inch of the soil with your finger; if it feels dry to the touch, it is time for a deep, thorough watering until it runs freely from the drainage holes.
Our water consumption is directly affected by our surroundings. Light is a major driver; placed in bright, indirect light, we will photosynthesize more actively and transpire (lose water vapor through our leaves) more quickly, requiring more frequent watering. In a low-light setting, our metabolism slows, and we will need water less often. Temperature and humidity play equally important roles. Warm, dry air from heating or air conditioning systems will cause moisture to evaporate from our soil and leaves rapidly. Conversely, in a cool, humid environment, the soil will retain moisture for much longer.
We communicate our distress clearly through our foliage. If we are receiving too much water, our leaves will begin to turn yellow, often starting at the tips and moving down the blade. The stems may become soft and mushy. This is a sign of root rot, a serious condition where our roots are dying and unable to function. If we are not receiving enough water, our leaves will respond by curling inward or becoming crispy and brown at the edges. This is a defense mechanism to reduce surface area and minimize further water loss.
When watering, the quality of water is paramount. We are sensitive to the chemicals found in tap water, particularly chlorine and fluoride. These can cause the tips of our leaves to turn brown. Using filtered, distilled, or rainwater is ideal. If using tap water, let it sit uncovered for 24 hours to allow some of the chemicals to dissipate. For soil-grown plants, always water deeply until it flows from the pot's drainage holes, ensuring the entire root ball is hydrated. Then, crucially, empty the saucer underneath to prevent us from sitting in water. For water-grown plants, maintain a constant water level that covers the roots and change it regularly.
