From my perspective as a Dendrobium orchid, a keiki is not a mere cutting but my own genetic clone, a vegetative offspring I produce to ensure my legacy continues. I typically generate these "baby" plants along my cane (pseudobulb) when environmental conditions signal that propagation is a good strategy. This can be in response to stress, such as the end of a growth cycle, or simply because I am a healthy, mature plant with abundant energy stores. The keiki develops its own roots and leaves while still attached to me, drawing moisture and nutrients directly from my vascular system until it is ready for independence.
My keiki is not ready to be separated until it tells you it is. The most critical sign is the development of its own robust root system. You must wait patiently until these roots are at least 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) long and have several healthy, silvery-green tips indicating active growth. These roots are its lifeline; without a sufficient number of them, the keiki will struggle to absorb water and will likely perish after separation, wasting the energy I invested. Rushing this process is the most common cause of failure.
When the keiki's roots are adequately developed, the separation process is a minor surgical procedure. You will need a sterilized, sharp blade (a scalpel or pruning shears cleaned with alcohol is ideal). The goal is to cleanly cut the stem connecting the keiki to my cane, about an inch or two above and below the keiki's base if possible. A clean cut minimizes the open wound for both me and the offspring, reducing the risk of pathogenic infection. It is prudent to have a fungicide, like cinnamon powder, on hand to dust both cut ends immediately after separation. This helps to seal the wound and prevent rot.
Once separated, the keiki is now an independent individual and must be potted immediately. Do not let its tender roots dry out. Choose a very small pot; an oversized pot will retain too much moisture around the roots, leading to rot. My offspring requires a loose, well-aerated, and fast-draining medium, such as a fine-grade orchid bark mix or sphagnum moss. Gently place the roots into the pot and carefully fill around them with the medium, ensuring the base of the keiki is level with the top of the medium. Do not bury the stem, as this can invite stem rot.
The initial weeks are a critical adjustment period for my keiki. It must now rely entirely on its own root system. To reduce water stress, provide high humidity, which can be achieved by placing the pot on a humidity tray or inside a clear plastic bag for the first few weeks. Place it in a warm location with bright, indirect light—similar to the conditions I thrive in. Water very carefully, allowing the medium to approach dryness before watering again, as the small root system is highly susceptible to rot. With proper care, the keiki will establish itself and begin its own growth cycle, eventually maturing into a flowering plant identical to me.
