Chrysanthemums, members of the genus *Chrysanthemum* in the Asteraceae family, are composite flowers. What we perceive as a single bloom is actually a dense head composed of two types of florets: the central disc florets and the peripheral ray florets. Successful preservation hinges on removing moisture quickly and evenly to prevent enzymatic and microbial degradation, which would cause browning and decay, while maintaining the structural integrity of these complex floral structures.
The plant's physiological state at harvest is critical. For the highest concentration of essential oils and the best structural integrity, harvest flowers at their peak, ideally on a dry, sunny morning after the dew has evaporated. This ensures the plant's stomata are open, and internal moisture levels are balanced. Choose blooms that are just fully open, with vibrant, turgid petals. Flowers that are over-mature or have begun to senesce will not preserve well, as their cellular structures are already breaking down.
This method leverages the plant's natural transpiration process in a controlled environment. Gather 4-6 stems and secure them with a rubber band, which contracts as the stems shrink. Hang the bundles upside-down in a dark, warm, dry, and excellently ventilated area. Darkness prevents photobleaching, which fades colors. Warmth and airflow facilitate the efficient movement of water vapor from the plant's tissues into the surrounding air. Hanging them inverted uses gravity to keep the stems straight and the flower heads upright, preventing the delicate ray florets from drooping and deforming as they lose turgor pressure.
For a faster, more shape-retentive preservation, silica gel acts as a powerful desiccant. This method is ideal for individual blooms you wish to display face-up. Place a base layer of silica gel crystals in an airtight container. Carefully place the chrysanthemum bloom on top and gently pour more crystals over and around the petals, using a soft brush to ensure the gel reaches between the dense disc florets without crushing them. The silica gel works by adsorbing the water molecules from the plant's cells rapidly, freezing the flower in its current form and often preserving a brighter color than air-drying. The airtight container creates a dry microclimate, preventing the flower from reabsorbing atmospheric moisture.
Pressing is suitable for smaller chrysanthemum blooms or individual petals. This method physically flattens the plant's three-dimensional structures by applying constant, even pressure. Place the flower between layers of absorbent paper (blotting paper or parchment) within a heavy book or a flower press. The paper wicks away moisture as it is squeezed out, resulting in a flat, dried specimen. This process dramatically alters the flower's form but beautifully highlights its symmetrical arrangement of florets, making it ideal for herbarium-style art.
Once fully dried (typically 1-4 weeks for air-drying, 2-7 days for silica gel), the flowers are extremely fragile due to the loss of all water content from their cell walls. Handle them minimally. Store preserved chrysanthemums away from direct sunlight, which will cause further fading, and in a low-humidity environment to prevent them from becoming limp or molding. A display case or sealed shadow box offers the best protection from dust and moisture, which can compromise the preserved structures.
