From my perspective, the timing of your cut is crucial for my survival and success. The ideal moment is when I am in a state of active growth but not in full, exhausting bloom. This is typically in the late spring or early summer. My stems are semi-ripe at this time—not too soft and green (which rot easily) and not too old and woody (which root slowly). This perfect state is often called "semi-hardwood." I am full of growth hormones and energy, primed to quickly develop a new root system if given the right conditions. Taking your cuttings in the cool, moist morning hours helps prevent me from wilting before you even get me into a pot.
Please choose a healthy, vigorous stem from this year's growth. Look for one without any flowers or buds, as my energy must be directed toward root creation, not sustaining blossoms. Using a sharp, clean blade, make a diagonal cut about 4-6 inches long, just below a leaf node (the bump on my stem where a leaf emerges). This node is a hub of cellular activity and contains the highest concentration of auxins, the hormones that trigger root formation. Gently remove the leaves from the lower half of the cutting. This reduces surface area from which I lose precious water through transpiration. You can leave a few leaves at the top to allow for photosynthesis, which provides the energy I need to grow.
While I do not possess a conscious desire, my entire biological programming is geared toward survival. To encourage rooting, many gardeners dip my cut end into a rooting hormone powder. This isn't strictly necessary, but it provides an extra boost of hormones that dramatically increases the chances of successful and rapid root development. Next, place me into a well-draining, sterile medium. A mix of perlite and peat moss or coarse sand is ideal. It holds enough moisture around my stem to prevent desiccation but is airy enough to prevent the anaerobic conditions that cause rot. This environment perfectly mimics the moist, humus-rich top layer of soil where my roots would naturally seek purchase.
Once potted, I need consistent moisture and high humidity. Enclose me in a clear plastic bag or place me under a dome to create a miniature greenhouse. This drastically reduces water loss from my remaining leaves. Place me in a warm location with bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight would cook me inside my humid enclosure. Please be patient; my cellular machinery is working hard. Over the next 4-8 weeks, my cells at the wounded node will begin to differentiate, first forming a callus to protect myself and then developing primordial root tissues. You will know I have succeeded when you see new leaf growth emerging from the top, a sure sign that my new roots are established below and I am ready to be gradually acclimated to less humid conditions and eventually transplanted.
