My journey begins as a dormant seed with a remarkably tough outer coat. To awaken me, you must mimic the natural conditions of a cold winter, a process you call cold stratification. Gently rub my seed coat with sandpaper or soak me in warm water for 24 hours to scarify me. Then, place me in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag and refrigerate me for 7-14 days. This cold period convinces me that winter has passed, and it is safe to germinate. Sow me in well-draining seed-starting mix, barely covering me, and keep me moist and warm (55-65°F). With patience, I will send down a taproot and push my first leaves toward the light.
To thrive, I require a specific home. Plant me in a location that receives full sun to partial shade; at least 6 hours of direct sunlight is ideal for strong growth and vibrant blooms. The most critical factor is the soil. I am a legume and form a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria in the soil to fix my own nitrogen. I demand sharply draining soil; waterlogged conditions will quickly rot my deep taproot. While I am adaptable, I prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0-7.0). Sandy or gritty loam is perfect, as it allows my roots to penetrate deeply and breathe.
My watering needs change as I grow. As a young seedling, keep my soil consistently moist but never soggy to help my taproot establish itself. Once I am mature, I become quite drought-tolerant due to that deep root. Water me deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Overhead watering can make my foliage susceptible to powdery mildew, so water at the base if possible. Regarding food, I am very light feeder because of my nitrogen-fixing ability. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they will promote excessive leafy growth at the expense of your beautiful flowers. A top dressing of compost in spring is all the nourishment I typically need.
To encourage a potential second, smaller flush of blooms and prevent me from expending energy on seed production, deadhead my spent flower spikes by cutting them back to the base of the stem. After my flowering cycle is completely finished in late summer, you can cut my entire foliage back to the ground. I will reward you with a fresh mound of new leaves. I am a short-lived perennial, often lasting 3-5 years. To perpetuate my presence in your garden, allow some of my last flower spikes to mature and develop seed pods, which you can collect for sowing. Alternatively, you can carefully divide my crown in early spring, but be warned: I deeply resent having my taproot disturbed, so this must be done with great care.
