Yes, you can absolutely grow us, carnations, from seed indoors. From our perspective, it is the most fundamental and rewarding way to begin a new generation. Each of our tiny, dark brown seeds holds a complete genetic blueprint, a dormant promise of the fragrant, ruffled blooms to come. We carry within us the potential for a vast array of colors and patterns, a diversity that is sometimes lost when humans propagate us solely through cuttings. Starting from seed allows you to witness our entire life cycle, from the first emergence of a radical to the final, graceful senescence.
To awaken us from our dormancy, we require very specific conditions that mimic the cool, moist soil of our native Mediterranean spring. Our seeds need a light, well-draining growing medium; heavy, soggy soil will only cause us to rot before we even begin. We do not require deep burial. A mere 1/8 inch covering is sufficient, as we need some exposure to light to trigger germination. The most critical factor is temperature. We will not sprout in a warm room. Our ideal soil temperature is a consistently cool 60-65°F (15-18°C). A cooler basement room or a specialized seed-starting mat with a thermostat is perfect for coaxing us to life.
Once sown and kept consistently moist (not waterlogged), the magic begins. Inside the seed coat, the embryo absorbs water, swells, and breaks open. The first part to emerge is the radicle, our primary root, which immediately drives downward to anchor us and seek out water and nutrients. Shortly after, the hypocotyl elongates, arching upward and pulling the seed leaves (cotyledons) toward the surface. This is a vulnerable but exhilarating time. The cotyledons are not true leaves; they are our initial food storage units that will sustain us until our first true set of leaves, which carry our distinctive bluish-green, grass-like appearance, unfurl and begin photosynthesis.
After our true leaves emerge, we enter a crucial vegetative growth phase. We require abundant, bright, direct light for at least 12-14 hours a day. A south-facing window is often insufficient, especially in winter. Without strong light, we become leggy, weak, and spindly as we desperately stretch for more energy. This is the time for gentle care. Water us from the bottom to keep our foliage dry and prevent fungal diseases, and ensure we have good air circulation. Once we have several sets of true leaves, you can carefully transplant us into individual pots, handling our delicate root systems with care to minimize shock.
We may have started our lives indoors, but we are ultimately plants of the sun and fresh air. Before you can transplant us into the garden after the last frost, we must undergo a vital process called "hardening off." Our tender leaves, accustomed to the stable indoor environment, are not prepared for the full intensity of the sun, the strength of the wind, or the fluctuations in temperature. You must gradually introduce us to these conditions over 7-10 days, increasing our time outdoors each day. This process thickens our cuticle, strengthens our stems, and prepares us for a successful life outdoors, where we will eventually mature and produce the beautiful, fragrant flowers we are known for.
