From our perspective as Dendrobium orchids, a keiki is not a mere accident; it is a vital survival strategy. We often produce these offshoots, or "babies," in response to specific environmental cues. This typically occurs when the conditions signal that our main growth is threatened, perhaps due to stress from temperature extremes, the decline of the mother plant, or simply because our genetic programming dictates it as an efficient method of propagation. The keiki is a perfect genetic clone, a copy of the mother plant, ensuring the continuation of our specific lineage. It develops its own root system while still attached, drawing minimal resources to become self-sufficient before embarking on an independent life.
Patience is crucial. For our long-term health and that of the keiki, separation should only occur when the young plant has developed a strong enough root system to sustain itself. We signal this readiness through our roots. You should wait until we have at least three roots, and each root should be approximately 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) long. These roots should appear plump, healthy, and have green or silvery-green tips, indicating active growth. Attempting to remove us before this point severely jeopardizes our chances of survival, as we lack the necessary organs to absorb water and nutrients independently.
The act of separation must be performed with precision and care to minimize trauma to both the mother plant and the keiki. Use a sterile, sharp blade—a scalpel or pruning shears disinfected with rubbing alcohol are ideal. Make a clean cut on the cane (pseudobulb), ensuring you include a small portion of the stem from the mother plant with the keiki's base. This provides a stable anchor point. Avoid pulling or twisting us off, as this can cause crushing damage and open large wounds that are susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections. A clean cut heals fastest for both parties.
Once separated, our needs are specific. We require a very small pot; a 2-3 inch pot is ideal. A pot that is too large will retain excess moisture around our small root system, leading to fatal rot. The potting medium must be exceptionally well-draining, such as fine-grade orchid bark mixed with sphagnum moss. Position us so that our roots are nestled gently into the medium and our base is just at the surface. Do not bury our crown. Immediately after potting, provide a stable, warm, and humid environment. Bright, indirect light is essential for photosynthesis, but direct sun will scorch our tender leaves. Hold off on fertilizing for the first few weeks to allow our roots to settle and heal.
Our initial watering should be light. The goal is to keep the new medium slightly moist but never soggy. You can provide humidity by placing our pot on a tray of pebbles with water. In the following weeks, we will focus our energy on establishing our root system in the new environment. Once you observe new root or leaf growth, you will know we have successfully acclimated. At this point, you can begin a very diluted fertilizer regimen. It is important to understand that we will not flower immediately; our biological imperative is to mature first. It may take one to three years for us to develop a strong cane capable of producing our own beautiful blooms, continuing the cycle of life.
