We sense the gradual increase in soil temperature and the lengthening photoperiod. This signals our root systems to become active, absorbing water and nutrients to fuel new growth. Our flower buds, set the previous summer, begin to swell. This is a critical time for moisture; consistent soil moisture is essential for supporting the impending burst of flowering and foliage development. A layer of organic mulch applied now helps conserve this moisture and insulates our roots from any late, unexpected frosts.
Our magnificent floral display concludes. Immediately after the last blooms fade, we begin the vital process of forming next year's flower buds on the new growth we are about to produce. It is imperative that any spent flowers (deadheading) are removed gently to prevent seed production, which diverts our energy away from this bud set and new shoot development. This is the time we are most hungry; a application of a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants provides the nutrients we need for a strong flush of new, healthy stems and leaves.
Our focus shifts from active growth to survival and maintenance. The intense summer sun and heat can cause significant water stress. Our shallow, fibrous root systems demand consistent moisture, but we despise waterlogged, soggy soil. Deep, infrequent watering that soaks the root zone is far superior to frequent, shallow sprinkling. A thick mulch layer is our best ally, keeping our roots cool and moist. We enter a period of semi-dormancy to conserve energy, and fertilization should be avoided to prevent forcing tender new growth that would be vulnerable to heat scald and winter damage.
As daylight wanes and temperatures cool, we begin our preparations for winter dormancy. We harden off our new growth, allowing it to mature and become more resilient to the cold. This is an excellent time for light pruning to shape our structure or remove any dead or diseased wood, but heavy pruning is ill-advised as it may stimulate new, tender growth. We continue to need adequate soil moisture, especially before the ground freezes, to prevent desiccation throughout the winter. A final, deep watering before the hard freeze is immensely beneficial.
We are in a state of rest, but we are not inactive. Beneath the soil, our roots are still functioning on warmer days. Our greatest winter threat is not the cold air itself, but rather the drying winds and winter sun that can lead to foliar desiccation (water loss we cannot replace from frozen soil). In exposed or windy locations, a physical windbreak or anti-desiccant spray can protect our evergreen foliage. For all types, a generous blanket of mulch, pulled back slightly from the main stem, provides essential insulation for our root zone against freeze-thaw cycles that can heave us from the ground.
