To understand our watering needs, you must first understand where we come from. We are native to the extremely arid deserts of southern Africa, where rainfall is infrequent, unpredictable, and often brief. Our entire evolution has been geared towards surviving prolonged periods of severe drought. Our unique stone-like appearance is a form of camouflage against herbivores, but our two succulent leaves are our lifeline. They are designed to store every precious drop of water we can get. Over-watering is, therefore, a catastrophic event for us, as it ruptures these storage leaves and leads to fatal rot. Our survival strategy is one of patience and minimal consumption.
Your watering schedule must be perfectly synchronized with our natural annual growth cycle. We do not follow a standard weekly schedule; we follow the seasons.
**Spring (Growth Resumption):** As days lengthen, our new leaves begin to emerge from the cleft between the old ones. This is the time for very cautious watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry and the old leaves have fully withered. The goal is to encourage root growth without harming the new body.
**Summer (Dormancy):** This is our rest period. High heat triggers dormancy, and we stop growing. You must withhold all water during this time. Watering a dormant Lithops will cook us from the roots up in the warm, wet soil, leading to certain death.
**Autumn (Active Growth & Flowering):** This is our prime growing season. As temperatures cool, we break dormancy and may produce a daisy-like flower. This is when we are thirstiest. Water thoroughly when the soil is completely dry, but always ensure excellent drainage. This period of hydration prepares us for the year ahead.
**Winter (Dormancy & Leaf Change):** During cool winter months, we are again dormant. The outer leaves are transferring their moisture and nutrients to the new inner pair. Withhold all water. Watering now can disrupt this process and cause the new leaves to rot or become misshapen.
The technique for watering us is as important as the timing. The "soak and dry" method is the only safe approach. When our cycle indicates it is time to water, you must provide a thorough, deep soaking. Pour water around the base of the plant until it runs freely out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This ensures the entire root system has access to moisture. Then, you must allow the potting medium to become completely, utterly bone-dry before even considering watering again. This cycle of deep saturation followed by complete drought perfectly mimics the desert thunderstorms we are adapted to.
You must learn to read our bodies. If we are receiving too much water, our leaves will become mushy, bloated, and translucent. They may split open or develop brown, rotting patches, often starting at the base. This is a medical emergency and is usually fatal. If we are under-watered, our leaves will become excessively wrinkled, shriveled, and soft to the touch, but they will not feel mushy or wet. This is a much easier problem to fix; a deep drink will typically plump us back up within a day or two. When in doubt, always err on the side of under-watering.
