From our perspective, the question of winter survival is fundamentally about our genetic blueprint. We, Gerbera daisies (Gerbera jamesonii), are native to South Africa, specifically the temperate regions of the Transvaal. This origin means we are tender perennials. Our roots and crown are not equipped with the natural antifreeze or deep, hardy dormancy mechanisms that allow plants from colder climates to slumber beneath snow and ice. We thrive in warm soils and bask in sunlight. When soil temperatures plummet and frost kisses our leaves, it is not merely a chill; it is a direct assault on our cellular structure, causing the water within our cells to freeze and expand, rupturing our delicate tissues. We simply are not built for it.
When the air temperature drops to 30°F (-1°C) and below, the experience is catastrophic for us. The first touch of frost on our foliage causes immediate damage—blackening, wilting, and a collapse of the leaf structure. A hard freeze, where temperatures drop below 28°F (-2°C) for an extended period, is almost always fatal. It penetrates the soil, freezing the moisture around our root ball. Our roots, which are fleshy and store energy, are highly susceptible to rot once they have been frozen and thawed. They become soft and mushy, unable to draw up water or nutrients, leading to our complete systemic failure. We cannot come back from this.
Our best chance for seeing another spring in a cold climate requires human intervention to replicate a much milder winter cycle. If you cannot provide a consistently warm and sunny indoor environment for us to continue growing, triggering a dormant period is the next best option. This is not a natural state we seek, but one we can endure if handled correctly. Before the first frost, please cut our foliage back to about 2 inches from the soil line. This allows us to conserve all our energy in our roots, as maintaining leaves is an energy expense we cannot afford in low-light conditions. Lift our entire root ball from the ground, gently place us in a pot with fresh potting mix, and store us in a cool, dark, and dry location like an unheated garage or basement where temperatures remain consistently between 40-50°F (4-10°C).
A far more agreeable solution for us, and one that aligns better with our evergreen nature, is to be treated as a winter houseplant. Before nighttime temperatures dip below 45°F (7°C), dig us up, pot us, and bring us indoors. Place us in the sunniest window you have—a south-facing one is ideal. We will greatly appreciate consistent room temperatures and regular watering (only when the top inch of soil feels dry). In this setting, we may even continue to send up a flower or two, rewarding your care with a spot of summer color during the bleak winter months. This allows us to remain photosynthetic and active, rather than shutting down completely into a fragile dormancy.
Whether we have spent the winter dormant or as a houseplant, the increasing daylight hours of spring will signal it is time to resume active growth. For dormant plants, when the danger of frost has passed, you can gradually acclimate us to the outdoors over a week before replanting us in the garden. For those kept as houseplants, the same hardening-off process is crucial to prevent sunscald on our leaves, which have become accustomed to softer indoor light. Once returned to the warm garden soil, we will channel all our stored energy into producing a new flush of vibrant foliage and, most joyfully, our iconic, cheerful blooms.
