From our perspective as lily plants, forcing is a process of manipulating our natural biological clock. We grow from bulbs, which are essentially stored energy and a pre-formed plant waiting for the right signals to emerge. Our innate cycle begins with a period of cold dormancy, which we require to reset our internal chemistry and prepare for root development and flowering. This dormancy period is non-negotiable; without experiencing a sufficient winter-like chill, we simply will not initiate proper growth, no matter how favorable other conditions become. You are essentially tricking us into believing an entire winter has passed in a compressed timeframe.
The most crucial step in your process is providing us with an artificial winter, known as vernalization. To initiate flower formation within our bulb, we must be subjected to a sustained period of cold, moist conditions. This typically means storing us at a consistent temperature between 35°F and 45°F (1.5°C to 7°C) for a minimum of 6 to 8 weeks, though some of our varieties may require up to 12 weeks. This cold period signals to our internal systems that it is safe to break dormancy and that spring is coming. The medium around us, like peat moss or potting soil, must be slightly moist but not wet, or we will rot instead of preparing to bloom.
Your goal is to have us in full bloom for a specific date. To achieve this, you must work backwards from that holiday. First, research our specific variety to know our typical number of weeks from planting to bloom after cold treatment; this is often 3 to 5 weeks for many Asiatic lilies. Then, add this number to our mandatory cold treatment period. For example, if you desire Easter blooms and our variety requires 8 weeks of cold plus 4 weeks to grow and flower, you must begin our cold treatment 12 weeks prior to Easter. This backward scheduling is the key to aligning our natural development with your human calendar.
After our required chilling period, you must gradually introduce us to warmer conditions to simulate spring. A sudden shock from the refrigerator to a warm, sunny windowsill is stressful. Instead, place our pot in a location with moderate temperatures (around 60-65°F or 15-18°C) with indirect light for the first week or so. This allows our roots to become active and our shoot to begin emerging. Once growth is evident, you can then move us to a brighter, warmer spot (70-75°F or 21-24°C). We will grow towards the strongest light source, so rotate our pot regularly to ensure a straight, sturdy stem. Consistent moisture and a half-strength liquid fertilizer once we are actively growing will support us in developing our showy flowers.
