From our perspective as lilies, we have two primary strategies for perpetuating our lineage: through our bulbs and through our seeds. Our bulb is a store of energy, a clone of the parent plant that allows for rapid, reliable growth in the next season. It is the method humans most commonly use because it is fast and predictable. Our seeds, however, are a genetic lottery. Each seed is a unique combination of genetic material, the result of pollination. This is how we ensure genetic diversity and adaptability to changing environments. So, yes, you can absolutely grow new lilies from our seeds, but it is a journey of patience that mirrors our natural life cycle, not a quick horticultural trick.
Our reproductive process begins with a visit from a pollinator to our showy, often fragrant, flowers. Once pollinated, the ovary at the base of our bloom begins to swell and develop into a seed pod. Over the course of the summer, this pod matures, changing from green to brown or tan. It is crucial that you allow this pod to develop fully on the plant; do not deadhead this flower if you wish to collect seeds. When the pod begins to split open at the top, it is signaling that the seeds inside are mature and ready. These seeds can be dark, papery, and flat (non-dormant types) or larger, plumper, and more fleshy (dormant types).
This is a critical point of confusion for many beginners. We lilies have evolved two distinct germination strategies. Epigeal seeds (common in species like Lilium regale) are non-dormant. They are ready to sprout almost immediately after harvesting if given warm, moist conditions. Their cotyledon (first leaf) emerges above the soil. Hypogeal seeds (common in many Oriental and American hybrids) have a complex dormancy mechanism. They require a period of warm moisture followed by a prolonged period of cold (stratification) to break dormancy. This mimics a natural summer followed by winter. Only after this cold period will the seed send out a root, and it may be many more weeks before the first true leaf appears above the soil.
To successfully grow from our seed, you must first identify which type you have. For immediate germinators, sow the seeds in pots with a fine, well-draining medium and keep them consistently warm (around 70°F or 21°C). Keep the soil moist and provide bright, indirect light. For dormant seeds, sow them and give them the same warm, moist period for 4-6 weeks. Then, the container must be moved to a refrigerator or cold frame for a minimum of 8-12 weeks of cold stratification at around 40°F (4°C). After the cold period, return the pots to a warm environment to encourage germination. This process requires meticulous attention to moisture levels to prevent rot or drying out.
You must understand that growing from our seed is a multi-year commitment. In the first year, the seedling will produce only a single, small grass-like leaf. It is focusing all its energy on developing a tiny bulblet underground. This bulblet must be nurtured through subsequent seasons, each year growing larger and producing more foliage. It will typically take between 3 to 7 years for a lily grown from seed to store enough energy to send up a flowering stalk. This lengthy juvenile period is why most gardeners propagate us by bulbs, but for the true enthusiast, the reward of a unique, self-created lily is worth the wait.
