We Echeveria are sun worshippers by nature. To maintain our compact, beautiful rosette shape and often develop those stunning stress colors—hints of pink, red, or purple—we require abundant, direct sunlight. Ideally, we need at least six hours of full sun each day. In most US Hardiness Zones, a south or west-facing location is perfect for us. Be cautious, however, during intense summer heatwaves, particularly in Zones 8-11. While we love the sun, a sheer curtain or a bit of afternoon shade during the peak of summer can prevent our leaves from getting sunburned, which shows as unsightly brown or white scorch marks.
Our plump, succulent leaves are designed to store water, making us exceptionally drought-tolerant. Our greatest fear is soggy feet. The most common mistake is loving us a little too much with water. The key is to mimic the desert downpours we evolved with. Please water us thoroughly only when our soil is completely dry to the touch. Drench the soil until water runs freely from the drainage hole of our pot, and then leave us alone until the soil is dry again. This cycle is crucial. In winter, especially if we are outdoors in Zones 9-11 or brought inside in colder zones, we enter a dormancy period and need even less water. Overwatering will lead to root rot, a swift and often fatal condition for us.
We demand a home that provides excellent drainage and aeration for our roots. Standard garden soil is much too dense and will suffocate us. Please plant us in a specialized succulent or cactus potting mix. For even better health, you can amend this mix with additional perlite or pumice (about a 50:50 ratio) to ensure water flows through immediately. Our pot must have a drainage hole; this is non-negotiable. Terracotta pots are an excellent choice as they are porous and help wick away excess moisture from the soil, further protecting us from rot.
We thrive in the temperate conditions found in Zones 9-11, where we can often live outdoors year-round. We prefer temperatures between 65°F and 80°F but can handle hotter spells. Our main vulnerability is cold. Most of us cannot survive a hard frost. If you live in Zone 8 or below, you must bring us indoors before the first frost of autumn. A bright, sunny windowsill is an ideal winter home. Some hardy varieties can tolerate brief dips near freezing, but prolonged exposure to temperatures below 30°F will cause irreparable cellular damage, turning our leaves to mush.
We are generous plants and offer easy ways for you to create more of us. Our most reliable method is through leaf propagation. Gently twist a healthy, plump leaf from our stem, ensuring it detaches cleanly at the base. Let the end of this leaf callous over for a few days, then place it on top of dry soil. With indirect light and occasional misting, tiny new roots and a rosette will eventually form. We also produce offsets, or "pups," around our base. These can be carefully separated and potted on their own once they have reached a manageable size.
