From the perspective of the Clivia plant, the period after flowering is not an end but a critical transition. It is a time of strategic energy reallocation, shifting resources from the spectacular but costly endeavor of reproduction to the fundamental processes of growth and future preparation. Here is a detailed guide on what to do, framed by the plant's physiological needs.
My flowering stalk, now brown and spent, is a potential vector for disease and a drain on my resources. While it drew energy to produce flowers and, if pollinated, would channel nutrients into seed production, that phase is over. By cutting this stalk off at its base using a clean, sharp knife, you prevent rot from setting in and stop me from wasting precious energy on a structure that no longer benefits me. This allows me to redirect my entire focus toward my leaves and root system.
I am now entering a major growth phase. My broad, strap-like leaves are my solar panels, and they are working hard to photosynthesize and store energy in my thick, fleshy roots. I require consistent moisture to support this activity, but my roots are highly susceptible to rot. Water me thoroughly only when the top few inches of soil are dry to the touch, ensuring any excess water can drain away completely. To fuel this growth, I need nutrients. Please provide me with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength every two to four weeks. This nourishment is essential for me to rebuild my strength.
My location is paramount. I need bright, indirect light to power my photosynthetic processes. Direct, harsh sunlight can scorch my leaves, damaging the very organs I rely on for energy production. A spot near an east-facing window is ideal. Furthermore, to initiate my next flower cycle, I will require a distinct period of cool rest later in the year. For now, maintain me at consistent room temperatures, avoiding drafts and sudden temperature swings that cause stress.
As autumn approaches, my needs will change again. To trigger the development of a new flower bud deep within my crown, I must experience a period of dormancy. This typically means six to eight weeks of cooler temperatures, around 50-55°F (10-13°C), with significantly reduced watering. Just keep my soil from becoming bone dry. This cool, dry period is a non-negotiable environmental signal that tells my internal clock that it is time to cease leaf growth and begin forming the foundation for next year's bloom.
After the required dormancy period, you can gradually return me to a warmer location and resume normal watering and feeding. The combination of the energy I stored over the summer and the corrective stress of the cool period will have prompted the formation of a new flower bud. With renewed care, this bud will soon emerge as a strong, new flower stalk, ready to begin the magnificent cycle of flowering once again.
