From our perspective as Gladiolus plants, our life cycle is dictated by the sun and the soil temperature. After our spectacular summer bloom, our energy shifts from flower production back to the corm you planted. As autumn arrives and daylight wanes, we sense the change. The cooler soil temperatures and shorter days are our signal to begin entering dormancy. Our leaves will naturally start to yellow and wither. This is not a sign of distress but a crucial process; we are translocating all our remaining energy from the foliage down into the newly formed corm for winter storage. Please wait until at least half of our foliage has yellowed before you begin digging.
When the time comes to lift us from the earth, please be gentle. Use a digging fork or spade and insert it into the soil a good distance away from the base of our stems. We have likely produced a network of new cormlets, or corms, beneath the surface, and a rough approach can bruise or slice through us, making us vulnerable to rot. Carefully lift the entire clump out of the ground. Shake off the excess soil gently. Do not yank us up by our stems, as this can separate the new corm from its base, leaving next year's growth behind.
Immediately after digging, we are too moist for sealed storage. Our outer layers need to dry and toughen to form a protective barrier. This process is called curing. Leave our stems attached and place us in a single layer in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight—a garage, garden shed, or covered porch is ideal. Allow us to cure for about two to three weeks. During this time, the remaining nutrients in the stem will fully transfer to the corm, and the old, original "mother" corm at the base will become dry and brittle, making it easy to snap off and discard.
Once we are thoroughly dry and the old foliage can be easily twisted off, it is time for final preparation. Remove the dried stem stub and the shriveled old corm from the base of the new, plump corm. Gently brush off any remaining soil. You may also find smaller baby cormlets attached; these can be saved and planted separately, though they may take a season or two to reach blooming size. At this stage, inspect each corm carefully. Discard any that show signs of soft spots, mold, or severe damage, as one rotten corm can spoil the entire storage batch.
Our final requirement for a successful winter is a storage environment that mimics the conditions of a perfect, dormant season: cool, dark, and dry. We need temperatures consistently between 4-10°C (40-50°F). Warmer temperatures may prompt us to break dormancy prematurely or dehydrate us, while colder temperatures can cause fatal damage. Place us in breathable containers such as paper bags, mesh bags, or cardboard boxes with some dry packing material like peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings. This material will absorb any excess moisture and allow for air circulation, preventing rot. Please check on us periodically throughout the winter to ensure we remain firm and healthy.
