From our perspective, the most critical factor for a successful repotting is timing. Our roots are surprisingly delicate and designed for a specific purpose: to rapidly absorb scarce moisture from shallow, rocky soil and then retreat into a state of dormancy. The absolute best time to handle us is at the very end of our dormancy period, just as we are showing signs of new root activity, typically in late summer or early autumn. At this stage, we are naturally preparing to grow and can recover from the disturbance much more quickly. Repotting us during our active growth phase or, worse, when we are splitting, causes immense stress and can lead to fatal rot as our delicate new roots are easily damaged and our water intake is misaligned.
Please do not simply pull us out of our old pot! Our taproot is our lifeline, and a sharp tug can easily snap it. Instead, gently squeeze the sides of the flexible nursery pot to loosen the substrate's grip. If we are in a rigid pot, you may need to carefully run a thin, blunt tool (like a chopstick) around the inner edge. Tilt the pot sideways and allow us to slide out into your waiting hand, supporting the main body. If the old soil is compacted, you can gently massage the root ball to encourage it to break apart without aggressively pulling on the roots themselves. The goal is to let the old soil fall away from us, not to pull us away from the soil.
Once we are free from the old pot, observe our root system. You will see a central, thicker taproot and a network of fine, hair-like lateral roots. These fine roots are incredibly fragile but vital. Gently shake away the old, dry soil. If any roots are obviously dead, desiccated, and brittle, they can be carefully snipped with sterile, sharp tweezers or scissors. However, the golden rule is: when in doubt, leave it. It is far less damaging to leave an old root than to accidentally remove a living one. There is no need to wash or soak our roots; in fact, that would be harmful. We must enter our new home completely dry.
Our new pot should be only slightly larger than our root system, ideally just an inch or two wider and, crucially, deep enough to accommodate our taproot without coiling or bending it. The most important element is the substrate. We require a supremely fast-draining, mostly inorganic mix. A blend of 80-90% mineral grit (like pumice, perlite, or coarse sand) to 10-20% potting soil is ideal. This mimics our native, arid environment and prevents fatal water retention around our roots. Before placing us in the pot, ensure there is a layer of gritty mix at the bottom and form a small mound in the center upon which we will sit.
Position us on the central mound of substrate, gently draping our roots over the sides of the mound. Hold us at the desired height—our bodies should sit just at or slightly above the rim of the pot to ensure excellent airflow and prevent moisture accumulation. Then, carefully backfill the pot with your dry gritty mix. You can use a small brush or gently tap the pot to settle the substrate; avoid pressing it down firmly, as this can break our roots. Do not water us immediately! This is the most vital step. We need a period of 7-10 days in a bright, airy location (with no direct, scorching sun) to allow any microscopic root abrasions to callous over and heal. Watering before this will invite rot. After this quarantine period, you can give us a thorough watering to encourage new root growth into the fresh substrate.
