From a botanical perspective, a keiki (Hawaiian for "baby") is a form of asexual reproduction. It is a genetically identical clone of the mother plant, produced to ensure the survival and spread of its genetic line. This phenomenon is most common in genera like Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium. The plant typically initiates keiki growth from a node on the flower spike (inflorescence) as an adaptive mechanism. This often occurs when the plant perceives environmental stress, such as the end of its life cycle, significant changes in temperature or light, or the loss of its root system. It is the orchid's way of propagating itself when seed production is not viable.
For successful propagation, you must wait until the keiki is physiologically mature enough to support itself independently. A keiki is not ready for separation until it has developed its own root system. Look for at least two to three roots that are a healthy green or silver-white color and are approximately 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) in length. The plantlet should also have several mature leaves capable of performing photosynthesis. Attempting to remove a keiki before it has sufficient roots will almost certainly result in its failure to establish, as it cannot absorb water or nutrients effectively.
The separation process must be performed with care to minimize damage and stress to both the keiki and the mother plant. Using a sterile, sharp blade (such as a scalpel or pruning shears disinfected with isopropyl alcohol), make a clean cut on the flower spike. Leave about an inch of the spike attached to both the keiki and the mother plant. This prevents creating an open wound on the main stem of the mother orchid, reducing the risk of introducing pathogens. Avoid pulling or twisting the plantlet, as this can damage the delicate meristematic tissue and young roots crucial for its future growth.
Once separated, the keiki requires a specific environment to encourage root development and establishment. Plant it in a very small pot with a fine-grade, well-aerated orchid potting mix, such as fine bark chips or sphagnum moss. The small container size is critical; a pot that is too large will retain moisture for too long around the limited root system, promoting rot. Do not use standard potting soil. Water the keiki sparingly at first, allowing the growing medium to approach dryness before rehydrating. Place the pot in a warm location with bright, indirect light—similar to the conditions the mother plant enjoys. High humidity is beneficial and can be achieved by placing the pot on a humidity tray or inside a clear plastic bag for the first few weeks.
After potting, the keiki will focus its energy on root establishment rather than immediate leaf production. This is a critical period where the plant is vulnerable. Resist the temptation to fertilize heavily; a very diluted, balanced orchid fertilizer applied monthly is sufficient. With proper care, the keiki will gradually acclimate to its new pot and begin to grow. It may take several years for the plant to mature to a size where it is capable of flowering, as it must first build a sufficient photosynthetic apparatus (leaves) and a robust root system to support the significant energy expenditure of blooming.
