From our perspective as Chrysanthemum × morifolium plants, commonly known as hardy garden mums, our relationship with the soil is fundamental to our vitality, bloom production, and ability to survive the winter. The ideal soil is not a single type but a specific set of conditions that create a harmonious environment for our root systems. We will detail our requirements below.
Above all else, we require soil that allows water to drain freely. Our roots are highly susceptible to rot if left sitting in saturated, oxygen-deprived soil, especially during cold, wet winters. Heavy, compacted clay soils are our greatest adversary as they trap water around our crowns. Conversely, very sandy soil drains too quickly, often leaving us parched and undernourished. The perfect medium strikes a balance, holding moisture and nutrients long enough for us to access them while allowing excess water to percolate away.
We thrive in a loamy soil texture. Loam is a balanced mixture of sand, silt, and clay particles. This structure provides a stable anchor for our roots, retains adequate moisture, and ensures sufficient pore space for vital oxygen. To achieve this, gardeners should generously amend native soil. Incorporating several inches of organic matter, such as well-rotted compost, aged manure, or leaf mold, is transformative. This amendment improves the structure of heavy clay by breaking up compaction and increases the water-holding capacity of sandy soils, creating the loamy conditions we desire.
We perform best in a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, ranging from 6.0 to 7.0. Within this range, our roots can most effectively access the essential nutrients dissolved in the soil solution. A soil test is the best way to determine the pH of your garden bed. If adjustment is needed, garden lime can raise a pH that is too acidic, while sulfur can lower a pH that is too alkaline. Regarding fertility, we are considered "heavy feeders" during our active growth phase. We prefer a soil rich in organic matter, which slowly releases nutrients. At planting time, mixing a balanced, slow-release fertilizer into the soil provides a steady supply of nitrogen for green growth and phosphorus for strong root development, which is critical for establishing ourselves before winter.
Your role in maintaining the soil environment does not end at planting. Applying a 2 to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or straw, around our base is immensely beneficial. This mulch layer moderates soil temperature, conserves moisture, suppresses weeds that would compete with us for resources, and gradually breaks down to further enrich the soil. Furthermore, dividing our clumps every two to three years in the spring prevents us from becoming overcrowded and depleting the soil's nutrients in a single area, ensuring the soil remains fertile and well-structured for years to come.
