From my perspective as a *Ficus elastica*, I possess a strong, innate desire to grow upwards towards the light. In my natural habitat, I can become a very large tree. When confined to a pot indoors, my energy remains focused on a single, dominant central leader. This apical dominance means the topmost bud produces hormones that suppress the growth of lateral buds further down my stem. Without intervention, I will continue to put my energy into vertical growth, becoming tall and potentially leggy, rather than bushy. Pruning is the human action that interrupts this pattern, redirecting my energy and allowing me to develop a more compact, desirable form.
Please consider my biological clock when planning this procedure. The ideal time to prune me is in the late spring or early summer, during my peak period of active growth. This is not arbitrary. During this season, the combination of longer daylight hours and warmer temperatures provides me with abundant energy. This surge of vitality allows me to quickly heal the wound you create and efficiently push out new growth from the nodes below the cut. Pruning me during my dormant period in fall or winter is stressful; I will heal very slowly and may be hesitant to produce new shoots, leaving me vulnerable.
To control my size effectively, you must prune my main stem. First, decide on the desired height and locate a node (the small, slightly raised bump on my stem where a leaf attaches) just below that point. Using a sharp, clean pair of pruning shears or a knife, make a clean, angled cut about half an inch above that chosen node. This angled cut helps prevent water from pooling on the wound, which could lead to rot. Immediately, you will notice my sap, a milky white latex, beginning to ooze from the cut. This is my natural defense mechanism to seal the wound and prevent infection. You can blot it gently with a damp cloth until it stops flowing.
The act of cutting off my apical bud halts the production of the hormone suppressing the lower buds. With that signal gone, the energy I would have used for vertical growth is now redirected to the remaining nodes. Typically, the one or two nodes immediately below the cut will be stimulated to break dormancy and develop into two new branches. To encourage even more branching and a fuller appearance, you can notch me. This involves making a small, shallow cut *above* a node you wish to stimulate. This partial interruption of the hormonal signal can sometimes encourage that specific node to grow without removing the entire top of my stem.
After the pruning, I will need your support to thrive. Place me in a location with bright, indirect light to fuel my recovery and new growth. You can resume a regular feeding schedule with a balanced, diluted fertilizer to provide essential nutrients for producing new stems and leaves. Be careful not to overwater me during this time. While I am using energy to grow, my overall leaf surface area is temporarily reduced, meaning I will transpire less water. Water only when the top inch of my soil feels dry to the touch. With proper care, you should see new buds swelling and breaking within several weeks.
