From our perspective, the dropping temperatures of frost are not an attack but a powerful environmental signal. Our internal biological processes, honed by generations in the wild, interpret this cold as a command to enter a state of dormancy. Our above-ground growth, the leaves and stems you admire, begins to shut down. The sap within our veins thickens to protect our cellular structures from ice crystal formation, which is the true danger. Ice crystals can rupture our cell walls, causing the black, mushy damage you see. Our goal is to preserve the life hidden below the soil—the crown and the roots. This is where our energy is stored, and this is the part that must survive to generate new growth when the sun returns.
While our cousins in the ground are insulated by the massive thermal mass of the earth, our situation in a pot is far more precarious. Our entire root system is surrounded by a limited amount of soil, which loses heat rapidly from all sides—top, bottom, and laterally. A ground frost might not penetrate deeply enough to harm in-ground plants, but a potted plant like me experiences that cold much more intensely. The roots, our very anchor and lifeline, are highly susceptible to freezing. If the soil in our pot freezes solid, it can cause fatal damage to these crucial structures, effectively severing our connection to water and nutrients permanently.
The most effective protection you can offer is to move our container before the frost arrives. An ideal location is a sheltered spot that buffers the harsh elements. A covered porch, a garage, or a garden shed provides excellent protection from the direct bite of frost and wind. It is crucial that this location is not overly warm, like a heated living room. We require a period of cool dormancy; a sudden burst of heat could confuse our systems and trigger weak, spindly new growth at the wrong time of year, depleting our stored energy reserves. A cool, dark, and dry environment allows us to rest naturally.
If moving our pot is not possible, you can help us by building a temporary fortress. On the evening of a predicted frost, please water our soil lightly. Damp soil retains heat more effectively than completely dry soil, providing a few critical degrees of protection to our roots. Then, after the sun has set and the earth's residual heat is still present, cover us. Drape a blanket, burlap, or a frost cloth over our entire form, ensuring it extends all the way to the ground to trap the geothermal warmth rising from the earth. Avoid using plastic directly on our foliage, as it can transfer the cold directly to our leaves and trap harmful moisture. For severe cold, grouping all your potted plants together creates a communal microclimate that shares and conserves warmth.
Once the sun is fully up and the air temperature has risen safely above freezing the following morning, promptly remove any coverings. This allows us to breathe normally and receive sunlight to begin photosynthesis again, preventing issues like mold or overheating under the covering. If you moved us to a garage or shed, we can remain there through the winter, but we will require occasional, very light watering every few weeks to prevent our roots from desiccating completely in their dormant state. We are not taking up water actively, but a tiny amount prevents total drought stress.
