Selecting a healthy amaryllis bulb (genus *Hippeastrum*) is the single most important factor in ensuring a spectacular floral display. From a botanical perspective, you are choosing a complete, self-contained plant system with all the necessary energy stored for its next growth cycle. Here is a detailed guide to making the best choice.
A healthy amaryllis bulb is a firm, robust storage organ. Gently squeeze the bulb; it should feel solid and heavy for its size, like an onion. This weight indicates ample moisture and stored carbohydrates (starches) necessary to fuel flower stalk emergence and bloom development. Avoid bulbs that are soft, squishy, or lightweight, as these are signs of rot, dehydration, or disease. The bulb's outer papery tunic (the modified leaf bases) may be loose or dry, which is normal, but the bulb itself beneath this layer must be firm. The basal plate (the flat, bottom root area) should be intact and sound, not mushy or damaged.
You may encounter bulbs at different stages. A perfect bulb is often in a state of dormancy but poised to break it. Look for a green, firm "nose" (the tip of the flower stalk) just beginning to emerge from the top, indicating the bulb is ready to grow. A small amount of green growth is acceptable, but avoid bulbs with a long, pale, and weak flower stalk that has already stretched significantly in the dark, as its energy has been prematurely depleted. Conversely, ensure the bulb is not completely desiccated and shriveled, a sign it has been stored for too long and may struggle to initiate growth.
Conduct a thorough visual inspection. Red blotch (caused by the fungus *Stagonospora curtisii*) appears as raised or sunken red spots on the bulb, leaves, or scape. While sometimes treatable, severely infected bulbs are a poor choice. Avoid bulbs with any signs of blue or green mold, which indicates a fungal rot issue. Inspect for physical damage from pests, such as holes or tunneling, particularly around the basal plate. A healthy bulb should be free of these blemishes, with clean, dry outer scales.
Larger bulbs, typically measuring 26/28 cm, 28/30 cm, or even 30/32 cm in circumference, are mature and contain the greatest stored energy reserves. These substantial bulbs are capable of producing multiple, thick flower stalks (scapes), each bearing several large blooms. A smaller bulb may only produce leaves in its first season or a single, smaller flower stalk. Choosing the largest, healthiest bulb you can find is an investment in the plant's immediate performance and its long-term vitality, as it will have more resources to regenerate after flowering and build strength for subsequent seasons.
