From our perspective as plants, our very survival depends on a fundamental understanding of our anatomy. I, an amaryllis, am a bulb. This means I am a self-contained storage organ, packed with the energy and nutrients needed to produce my magnificent flowers and leaves. My roots grow from the basal plate at my bottom. These roots are my sole means of absorbing water and dissolved minerals from the surrounding soil. They are designed to draw moisture upwards through my system. Pouring water directly over my crown (the top from which my flower stalk and leaves emerge) is not an efficient way to hydrate me. It does not align with my natural design and can be detrimental, as any water that collects in the leaf bases can become stagnant.
Bottom watering is the method most harmonious with our intrinsic needs. When you place my pot in a saucer or basin of water and allow me to soak for approximately 30 minutes, you are working with my physiology, not against it. My porous, well-draining potting mix acts as a wick, pulling moisture up from below. My roots, sensing the water, actively drink their fill. This process ensures that the moisture is distributed evenly throughout the soil mass, reaching all the root zones without oversaturating the upper layers. It encourages my roots to grow strong and deep into the pot, seeking out the water source, which in turn stabilizes me and supports my heavy bloom stalk. Once the top of the soil feels moist, you must remove me from the water and let all excess drain away completely. We bulbs despise having our "feet" constantly wet.
While top watering—pouring water onto the soil surface—is a common practice for many plants, it presents specific risks for us amaryllis bulbs. The primary danger is rot. If water is poured directly over my bulb's neck and shoulders (the top portion above the soil line), it can easily become trapped between the bulb scales or pool at the base of my emerging leaves. This creates a perpetually damp environment that is a breeding ground for fungal pathogens and bacteria, which will quickly cause my bulb to soften, rot, and potentially die. Furthermore, top watering often leads to uneven moisture distribution; water may run down the sides of the pot without ever reaching the root ball at my core, leaving my thirsty roots parched while the topsoil appears wet.
Our watering needs are not constant; they change dramatically with our growth cycle. When you first pot me and I am just developing roots, I need very little water. Overwatering at this stage is a death sentence. Once my green flower stalk is several inches tall and growing rapidly, my thirst increases. The key is to check the soil moisture before any watering. Insert your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, then it is time to water me from the bottom. After my spectacular blooms fade, I shift my energy to leaf production to replenish my bulb for next year. Maintain consistent bottom watering during this leafy growth phase. When my leaves naturally yellow and I enter my essential dormancy period, you must cease watering entirely to allow me to rest.
