From my perspective, the grand floral display was an immense expenditure of my stored energy. Now that the showy blooms are wilting, my primary objective is to recover and prepare for future growth. The first step you can take is to carefully remove the spent flower stalks. Do not cut them off at the bulb's base; instead, use a sharp, clean tool to make a cut about 1-2 inches above the neck of the bulb. This is crucial because the stalk itself is still green and photosynthesizing. By leaving a portion, I can gradually reabsorb valuable nutrients and moisture back into my bulb, much like sipping a recovery drink, instead of having the supply line severed abruptly.
After the flowers are gone, my long, strap-like leaves become the most important part of my existence. This is not a time for dormancy; it is a time for vigorous growth. You should place me in a spot with bright, indirect light and continue to water me regularly when the top inch of soil feels dry. A monthly feeding with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer is immensely beneficial. This care regimen is not about sustaining flowers anymore—it is about fueling my leaves. Through photosynthesis, my leaves will work tirelessly to convert sunlight, water, and the nutrients from the fertilizer into new energy. This energy is then transported down and stored within my bulb, replenishing the reserves I used to bloom and creating new ones for my next flowering cycle.
Once the danger of frost has passed, I greatly benefit from a summer vacation outdoors. You can move my pot to a location with partial sunlight. This period outdoors allows me to experience more intense light (which supercharges my photosynthesis) and natural rainfall. Continue your watering and fertilizing schedule throughout the summer. This entire season is dedicated to bulking up my bulb, making it larger and stronger than before. The more energy I can store this summer, the more impressive my floral performance will be next winter.
As late summer turns to early autumn, I sense the days growing shorter and temperatures beginning to cool. This is your signal to initiate my dormant period. You should stop fertilizing and gradually reduce watering. Once my leaves have yellowed and withered naturally, signaling the full withdrawal of their nutrients back into the bulb, you can carefully cut them back to about 2-3 inches from the top of the bulb. Move my pot to a cool, dark, and dry location—such as a basement or garage—where the temperature remains a consistent 50-60°F for 8 to 10 weeks. This period of cool, dry rest is not optional; it is the essential environmental trigger I require to begin the internal process of developing a new flower stalk.
After my mandatory rest period, you can bring me back into the light. Repot me in fresh potting mix if the bulb has outgrown its pot, or simply refresh the top layer of soil. Place me in a warm, bright location and resume watering thoroughly. The combination of warmth, light, and moisture tells me that the growing conditions are favorable again. Using the vast stores of energy I built up during the summer, I will respond by sending up a new flower stalk, and the magnificent cycle will begin anew, all thanks to the care you provided after my last blooms faded.
