Upon arriving in your home, my most critical need is appropriate light. As a Phalaenopsis, I am an epiphyte, naturally growing in the dappled shade of tree canopies. Direct, harsh sunlight will scorch my leaves, leaving permanent, sunken yellow or brown spots. Conversely, deep shade will stifle my ability to photosynthesize. Please place me near an east-facing window where I can bask in the gentle morning sun. A north-facing window is also suitable. If only a south or west window is available, position me several feet away from the glass or use a sheer curtain to diffuse the intense afternoon rays. My leaves should be a healthy olive green; if they turn dark green, I need more light; if they become reddish or yellowish, I am getting too much.
My thick, silvery-green roots are coated in velamen, a spongy tissue that absorbs water and nutrients. They are also photosynthetic and crave air circulation. Overwatering is the most common threat to my life, as it suffocates my roots, leading to rot. Do not water me on a fixed schedule. Instead, assess my moisture needs by looking at my roots through the clear plastic pot. Silvery-white roots indicate I am thirsty. Plump, green roots mean I am content. When I need a drink, take my inner pot to the sink and thoroughly drench my potting mix (typically bark-based) with lukewarm water, allowing it to flow freely through the drainage holes. Let me drain completely before placing me back in my decorative pot. Never let my roots sit in standing water.
While the nursery provided me with initial nutrients, I will need supplemental feeding to rebloom. During my active growth phase (when I am producing new leaves or a flower spike), fertilize me every other week with a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer diluted to half or quarter strength. Flush my potting mix with plain water once a month to prevent harmful salt buildup. I also thrive in a humid environment, ideally between 50-70%. In dry homes, you can place my pot on a humidity tray filled with pebbles and water (ensuring the pot itself does not sit in the water) or occasionally mist the air around my leaves.
When my beautiful flowers eventually wilt and drop, this is not my end but a transition into a vegetative rest period. You have a choice with my flower spike. You can cut it back to just above a visible node (bump) on the spike; I may produce a secondary branch of blooms from this node. Alternatively, if the spike turns brown and dry, you can cut it off entirely at the base. This allows me to redirect all my energy into growing new roots and leaves, building strength for a much more spectacular bloom display next season. With proper care, I can live and rebloom for many years, becoming a long-term companion rather than a temporary decoration.
