From my perspective as a Haworthia, my watering needs are fundamentally different from most houseplants. I am a succulent, which means my thick, fleshy leaves are specifically designed to store large amounts of water. In my native habitat of South Africa, I endure periods of intense drought followed by heavy rains. My root system is shallow and fine, adapted to quickly absorb moisture from a passing shower before the sun dries the soil again. Therefore, my core requirement is not a consistent, moist environment, but rather a cycle of thorough soaking followed by a complete drying out. Overwatering is the single greatest threat to my survival indoors, as it leads to root rot—a condition where my roots suffocate and decay in perpetually wet soil, ultimately killing me.
The most crucial concept for my caretaker to understand is the "soak and dry" method. This does not mean giving me a small sip of water every few days. Instead, when it is time to water, you must thoroughly drench my soil until water flows freely from the drainage hole at the bottom of my pot. This ensures that all of my roots have access to the moisture they need. After this deep watering, I must be left completely alone until my soil is 100% dry all the way through. You can check this by sticking a wooden skewer or your finger deep into the soil; if it comes out clean and dry, I am ready. If it comes out with damp soil or particles stuck to it, I still have enough internal moisture and do not need more water.
There is no universal weekly schedule that applies to me all year round. My thirst is influenced by several environmental factors. During my active growing seasons in spring and fall, I will use water more frequently and may need watering every 2-3 weeks. In the intense heat of summer, I often enter a dormant state to conserve energy and will require water less often, perhaps only once a month. During the winter, with lower light levels and cooler temperatures, my growth slows significantly, and I may only need water once a month or even less. The type of pot I am in also matters; I dry out much faster in a porous terracotta pot than in a glazed ceramic or plastic pot. Furthermore, the amount of sunlight I receive, the humidity in your home, and the air circulation around me all play a role in how quickly my soil dries.
Instead of relying on the calendar, the best way to care for me is to learn to read my signals. A well-hydrated Haworthia has firm, plump leaves. When I am starting to get thirsty, you will notice subtle changes. My leaves may become slightly less firm to the touch, they may begin to curl inwards slightly, or the very deepest grooves on my leaves may appear more pronounced. In some species, the very tips of the leaves may show a hint of browning or dryness. These are my ways of communicating that I am beginning to use my internal water reserves and that the soil is likely dry enough for a drink. It is always safer to err on the side of underwatering, as I can easily recover from slight shriveling with a good soak, but I cannot recover from the mushiness of rot.
