First, you must understand that not all of us are suitable candidates for this transition. We are perennial in warm climates (USDA zones 10-11) but are most commonly treated as annuals. Bringing a large, mature plant indoors is often impractical. The best candidates are younger, more compact plants or those you have propagated from cuttings specifically for this purpose. Our large, sprawling forms will struggle significantly with the reduced space and light indoors, becoming leggy and stressed. Please assess our size and health honestly before attempting this move.
Do not abruptly move us from the bright, sunny outdoors directly to your indoor environment. This sudden shock will cause severe leaf drop and weaken us immensely. Instead, a gradual acclimation period is essential. About 2-3 weeks before the first expected frost, begin moving our container to a shadier, more sheltered outdoor location for increasing periods each day. This process helps us slowly adjust to lower light levels, which is the single greatest change we will face indoors. Rushing this step will jeopardize our entire survival through the winter.
Once indoors, our needs are very specific. We demand the brightest light possible. A south-facing window is ideal; an east or west window is the absolute minimum. Without sufficient direct sunlight, our stems will become etiolated—stretched, weak, and pale—as we desperately reach for a light source. We also prefer cool conditions, with ideal temperatures between 50-60°F (10-15°C). A warm, dry room will encourage soft, weak growth and make us highly susceptible to spider mites and aphids. Good air circulation is crucial to discourage fungal diseases, but keep us away from harsh, cold drafts.
Our metabolism slows dramatically during the winter months due to lower light levels and cooler temperatures. Therefore, our thirst diminishes considerably. You must allow the top few inches of soil to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Soggy, constantly wet soil is a death sentence, leading to root rot which we cannot recover from. Furthermore, you must cease all fertilization. We are in a period of minimal growth and dormancy; providing fertilizer will not benefit us and can actually lead to a harmful buildup of salts in the soil, damaging our root system.
As the days begin to lengthen in late winter, you may notice us putting on some new growth. This is the signal to begin preparing us for our return to the outdoors. Do not move us outside immediately after the last frost; we need to be re-acclimated to outdoor conditions just as we were when brought inside. Start by placing us in a shaded, protected location for a few hours each day, gradually increasing our exposure to sun and wind over 7-10 days. Once we are hardened off, you can return us to a sunny spot in the garden for another season of growth and flowering.
